Moser and Beber add new rock climb to Santa Massenza
Peter Moser and Alessandro Beber have established Figli del Vento (180m, 7b+, 6c+ oblig) at Santa Massenza (Valle dei Laghi, Arco, Italy). The report by Beber.
Last spring Peter Moser asked me to go and try a line he'd noticed at Santa Massenza (as the crag is known, although it would me more correct to call it Fraveggio given its proximity to the village). Since the crag is a mere 5 minutes from home, we decided to go and check it out.
As we forged the line we were constantly exposed to a cold northerly wind - hence the name of the route children of the wind - and this route is a real gem: the difficulties increase the higher you climb and the rock quality is superb!
The face is located in a beautiful setting, locked in that enchanted valley called Valle dei Laghi, valley of lakes... at the belay you can observe the farmers pruning the vineyards and olive groves down below, just a stone's throw from the lake, with the peaks still snow-capped peaks in the background; this is a harmonious balance of happiness!
Unfortunately, or fortunately, climbers tend to seek their happiness elsewhere and the sheet of solid, motley coloured rock paves the way to a variety of different moves: from easy slabs to steep tufas, this route has it all!
Making the first ascent of a route ground-up always requires plenty of time and energy, but if you're satisfied with the end result, then it's always worth it. Even if the "finished project" is suffices merely to crimp your fingers one afternoon!
TOPO: Figli del Vento, Rupe di Santa Massenza
by Alessandro Beber