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Febbre da Cavallo, the dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese close to Campobasso in Molise, Italy
Photo by Riccardo Quaranta
Febbre da Cavallo, the dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese close to Campobasso in Molise, Italy
Photo by Riccardo Quaranta
The drytooling crag Febbre da Cavallo in Molise, Italy
Photo by Riccardo Quaranta
Febbre da Cavallo, the dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese close to Campobasso in Molise, Italy
Photo by Riccardo Quaranta
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Febbre da Cavallo, new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese

15.02.2013 by Riccardo Quaranta

Riccardo Quaranta introduces Febbre da Cavallo, the new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese close to Campobasso, Molise, Central Italy.

This new crag is at the forefront of drytooling in central and southern Italy and is only the third of its kind after one in Abruzzo and one in the Marche. The crag was developed by myself and is located in a truly beautiful natural setting, on the Capo D’Acqua plateau close to Campitello Matese. A beautifully panoramic, 30-minute walk is a good enough reason to visit the area, while the crag hosts a dozen of interesting routes up to 18m in height.

The routes range in difficulty from very easy to medium (i.e. from M4 to M6+) and the crag is therefore ideal for beginners. Unlike the routes at the Grotta delle Ciaole, there are fewer objective dangers and the base of the crag is wide and ideal for belaying.

I hope that my work and hours spent in this corner of the Matese mountains will be stimulus to future generations of climbers. I would lie to thank the sponsors who believed in this project (Campo Base Outdoor Equipment Rome and Ferrino) and my friend Michele Di Chiro e Fabio Madonna for their help while establishing the routes.

Route
Grade
Length
First ascent
1. Bellicapelli
M6+
10m
Riccardo Quaranta
Can only be climbed at the start of the season, before heavy snowfall
2. Er ventresca
M5
10m
Riccardo Quaranta
Can only be climbed at the start of the season, before heavy snowfall
3. C’ho certi cazzi..
M6
10m
Riccardo Quaranta
Technical stamina climbing, recommended
4. Febbre da cavallo
M6
10m
Riccardo Quaranta
Short and intense
5. Er pomata
M4+
12m
Riccardo Quaranta
Slightly overhanging start, then great climbing to finish
6. Manzotin
M4+
18m
Riccardo Quaranta
Boulder (watch out for the mantle if the snow isn't packed)
6a.Variante Manzotin
M4
18m
Riccardo Quaranta
Nice corner which links to the previous route. Tree belay possible for both.
7. Mandrake
M5
18m
Riccardo Quaranta
Difficult starting move and finish
8. Dartagnan
M4+
18m
Riccardo Quaranta
Overhanging finish, highly recommended
9. Soldatino
M4
18m
Riccardo Quaranta
Difficult start and final corner


Campitello Matese (CB), Capo D’Acqua, Central Italy
Coordinates: lat. 41°26'45.48"N lon. 14°23'23.04"E
Altitude: 1560m
Orientation: South; despite facing south, the crag is remains in the shade until December.
Equipment: 10mm stainless steel bolts. Belays equipped with lower-off carabiner.
Gear: 50m rope, 8 quickdraws, helmet.

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