Bafomet, first M14 in Poland
On 17/02/2013 Michal KrÃ³l and Marcin Gasienica-Kotelnicki both climbed Bafomet to establish Poland's first-ever drytooling route graded M14.
Poland has its first-ever M14 drytooling route thanks to Michał Król and, immediately afterwards, Marcin Gąsienica-Kotelnicki who freed Bafomet on Thursday 7 February. The climb is located in a cave above the town of Zakopan in the Tatras mountain range which hosts other calibre routes such as Therion M13, Omen M12, Samael M12 and Szatańskie Wersety M9+.
The new line is 30m long and weaves its way through a massive roof past long reaches, tricky undercuts and three bouldery cruxes and Król needed 25 minutes for the first ascent. "When we sent Therion M13 last year" explained Król "we knew that the cave offered another hard line, possibly even harder. We started working this project in mid-December. When we finally reached the middle we realised it would indeed be possible to link the entire route. But it certainly wasn't easy... There are some long, hard, boulder moves right at the start and one day I even broke my icetool. What we needed was just one good day! Some peace, strength and luck… Last Thursday that day arrived!"
Climber, alpinist, Mountain Guide. His ascents include
Invisible Airwaves 5.10, A2+, Looking Glass, North Carolina, Smoky Mountains, USA
Lotos Peak 5620m, VIII-, M6, 750m, first ascent, Miyar Valley, Himalaya Pradesh, India
Tama Donog 5245m, VIII-, 1000m, first ascent, Miyar Valley, Himalaya Pradesh, India
Geruda Peak 5640m, VII+ 1x AO, 900m, first ascent, Miyar Valley, Himalaya Pradesh, India.
Pharilapcha 6017m, Dzień Niepodległości M7, WI5, 1300m, first ascent, Khumbu Valley, Nepal
Pik Vernyi 5150m, Cztery pory roku M8- WI5, first ascent, Kyrgyzstan
Utok na spicu hit parady M7+, WI5, Tatra
Omen M12, Tatra
Il Balcone sul Paradiso M10+ , Valsavarenche, Italiy
Alicja w krainie czarów M7, WI5, Tatra
Therion M13, Tatra
Samael M12, Tatra
Bafomet M14, first ascent, Tatra
Climber, alpinist, member of the Mountain Rescue team. His ascents include
Misterium Nieprawości X-, Mnich, Tatras
Metallica IX+, Mnich, Tatras
Saduś IX-, Mnich, Tatras
Mordor X/X+ (8b), RP
Omen M12 first ascent, Tatras
Samael M12 first ascent, Tatras
Therion M13 first ascent, Tatras