New mixed climbs up Hochgasser in Austria

Two new routes have been established up the NW Face of Hochgasser in Austria: Ben Gassa and Wurzer Rinne.

In mid-November Austria's Kals am Grossglockner mountain guides established two interesting, mid-grade mixed climbs up the North West Face of Hochgasser (2922m). These recent additions join the only other known route up this face, Hauptgully (700m, 60°, M4) first climbed by Isidor Poppeller in autumn 2011.

The first new route is called Ben Gassa and was established by Poppeller and Vittorio Messini on 16/11/2012 with difficulties in the region of M5/M6, WI5, following a gully circa 50m to the right of Hauptgully.

Making the most of these excellent conditions, two days later the brothers Peter and Matthias Wurzer chose a line a few hundred metres further right to make the first ascent of their aptly named Wurzer Rinne. Just like the other routes, this finishes on the North Ridge, after having breached difficulties up to M5, WI5.

Even if these routes don't climb extreme difficulties, both require carefully snow pack assessment, as the NW Face is prone to avalanches. Autumn is therefore the best time of year for these routes.


TOPO: Hauptgully, Hochgasser, Austria

TOPO: Ben Gassa, Hochgasser, Austria

TOPO: Wurzer Rinne, Hochgasser, Austria