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Matina Cufar climbing Philadelphia (7c+) at Roccadoria, Sardinia
Photo by Maurizio Oviglia
French base jumper Jerome Rochelle climbing at Roccadoria Monteleone
Photo by Maurizio Oviglia

Water and rock 2012, the Sardinian climbing meeting at Roccadoria Monteleone

10.10.2012 by Maurizio Oviglia

The climbing meeting "L'acqua e la roccia" will take place on 20 and 21 October 2012 at Roccadoria Monteleone, Sardinia.

The annual meeting "L'acqua e la roccia" - water and rock - at Roccadoria is just around the corner and over the years this international festival has turned out to be the longest of its kind in Sardinia. Roccadoria is a spectacular crag close to Alghero, discovered and bolted as of 2005 with almost 100 routes which, thanks to the recent climbing guidebook Pietra di Luna, has grown in popularity among European climbers. The cliff offers and interesting mix of climbing styles which vary from steep overhangs such as those found at Isili (Sardinia) to the technical climbing found at Finale Ligure (Liguria) or Lumignano (Veneto), all set in beautiful surroundings: climbing above a cobalt blue lake.

This festival was originally simply a climbing meeting based on an idea by Roberto Ciabattini, Italo Chessa and Maurizio Oviglia who then formed Amici della Montagna Sarda - the association Friends of Sardina's mountains - but over time the event has evolved and now includes other outdoor sports such as trekking, mountain biking, canoeing and, as of this year, paragliding and running.

What renders this meeting unique is the landscape and the small village Roccadoria Monteleone located at the top of the cliff. This charming hamlet is shrouded in history and happens to be - with its mere 130 inhabitants - one of the smallest on the entire island. The mayor Antonello Masala has shown an active interest in climbing and has managed to involve the inhabitants who cook typical Sardinian dishes in the town square and organise craft shows.

Special guests are invited every year to the meeting and the rocks have been graced by star climbers such as Arthur Kubista, Martina Cufar, Jerome Rochelle, Stefania Daniele, Luca Giupponi, Luca Andreozzi and many more, all of whom have helped free hard routes bolted specifically for the meeting.

Each year in fact Maurizio Oviglia "gives" a difficult new route to these guests who then free the line while being watched by a curious crowd of onlookers, climbers and non. And for the joy of all others, the Sassari-based climbers Marco Marini and Andrea Loriga continue to add easy new routes.

This year's special guest is Rolando Larcher and the Italian climber will present, amongst others, some video clips of his latest expedition. Apart from the traditional climbing competition - split into Speed (in the spectacular quarry) and Lead (on the rock climbs, in teams of 4), there is much more on offer and this can be found on the official website www.roccadoria.org. The date for your diaries is 20/21 October 2012!

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