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Mykhaylo Shalagin and Olga Shalagina win the first stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2007.

02.04.2007 by

On 31/03/2007 the Ukrainians Mykhaylo Shalagin and Olga Shalagina won the first stage of the IFSC World Cup Boulder at Erlangen, Germany.

The seven-staged Bouldering World Cup 2007 kicked off in Germany's Erlangen last weekend and was dominated by the Ukraine. Relative newcomer Mykhaylo Shalagin surprised all to win the men's event, while reigning World Champion Olga Shalagina confirmed expectations to win the women's comp.

Once again the signals from the world bouldering circuit confirm just how indecipherable, difficult and uncertain this short and intense discipline is, above all in the men's event. The 25 year old Ukrainian was followed into second place by one of the world finest, Kilian Fischhuber from Austria, while third place went to 20 year old Jonas Baumann who, in doing so, produced his most important international climb to date. Shalagina beat the recently crowned European Champion Juliette Danion from France and Chloé Graftiaux from Belgium who, once again, proved just how versatile she can be.

The Qualification numbers in the Men's event say it all: Stephane Julien from France led the provisional field (all 6 boulders sent first go!) ahead of Gareth Parry from Britain and Nalle Hukkataival from Finland (both sent all 6 boulders but needed more attempts to do so). Pouvreau (Fra), Verhoeven (Ned), Müller (Sui), Fischhuber (Aut) and Ennemoser (Aut) all sent 5 problems.

Hukkataival took the lead in the Semifinal, sending 3 out of 4, ahead of Kilian Fischhuber, Matthias Müller and Mykhaylo Shalagin (all with 2 tops in 2,3 and 5 attempts respectively). Gareth Parry and Jonas Baumann qualified for the final too, both with 1 top first go. In the Final Shalagin startled all and send the 4 problems in just 5 attempts. Fischhuber needed 4 gos for his 3 tops, while Baumann needed 5. Hukkataival placed 4th, Parry 5th and Müller 6th.

The women's competition was marked by Olga Shalagina fightback to victory, from provisional 7th in the Qualification to 5th in the Semiginal, and then victory with 4 problems sent in 6 attempts. Shalagina's epic battle repressed Juliette Danion who had led the competition from the outset, sending all problems straight off in both the Qualification and the Semifinal. But in the last round the reigning European Champion needed 11 attempts to send the final four problems and so, right at the end, she found herself slip into second place.

19 year old Chloé Graftiaux from Belgium placed 3rd (2 tops, 2 attempts), 17 year old Silvie Rajfova from the Czech Republic placed 4th, Natalija Gros from Slovenia placed 5th and Sabine Bacher from Austria placed 6th.


Results men
1 Mykhaylo Shalagin UKR
2 Kilian Fischhuber AUT
3 Jonas Baumann GER
4 Nalle Hukkataival FIN
5 Gareth Parry GBR
6 Matthias Müller SUI
7 Gérome Pouvreau FRA
8 Stephane Julien FRA
9 Nicolas Badia FRA
10 Tomasz Oleksy POL
11 Markus Hoppe GER
12 Jorg Verhoeven NED
13 Michele Caminati ITA
14 Tomás Mrázek CZE
15 Lukas Ennemoser AUT
16 Guillaum Glairon Mondet FRA
17 Thomas Caleyron FRA
18 Peter Würth GER
19 Mark Croxall GBR
20 Wouter Jongeneelen NED
21 Lucas Preti ITA
21 Blaz Rant SLO
23 Stewart Watson GBR
24 Roddy Mackenzie GBR
25 David Barrans GBR
26 Stefano Ghidini ITA
27 Christian Core ITA
27 Emanuel Moosburger AUT
29 Ludovic Laurence FRA
30 Sebastien Jalmain FRA
full results

Results women
1 Olga Shalagina UKR
2 Juliette Danion FRA
3 Chloé Graftiaux BEL
4 Silvie Rajfova CZE
5 Natalija Gros SLO
6 Sabine Bacher AUT
7 Jenny Lavarda ITA
8 Samantha Berry AUS
9 Emilie Abgrall FRA
10 Barbara Bacher AUT
11 Angelica Lind SWE
12 Yulia Abramchuk RUS
13 Celine Combaz FRA
14 Maud Ansade FRA
15 Ludovine Harmand FRA
full results

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