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Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic (Slo) Piolet d'or 2006 for their new route up the NW Pillar of Chom Lhari (7326m - Tibet).
Photo by Giulio Malfer |
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Pavle Kozjek (Slo) Piolet d'or 2006 Spectator's Choice for his sub 15 hour solo new route up the SE Face of Cho Oyu (8201m) in Nepal.
Photo by Giulio Malfer |
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above: Boris Lorencic and Marko Prezelj, below: Steve House and Vince Anderson (Piolet d'Or 2005 and members of the Jury Piolet d'or 2006)
Photo by Giulio Malfer |
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Yuri Koshelenko (President of the Jury and winner of the Piolet d'or 2003 with Valéry Babanov for their ascent of Nuptse)
Photo by Giulio Malfer |
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| 29/01/2007 - by Vinicio Stefanello |
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| PIOLET D’OR 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari |
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| On 26 January 2007 Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic from Slovenia were awarded the "Golden ice axe" for their new route on Chomo Lhari. Pavle Kozjek was awarded the Spectators Choice for his new route climbed solo up Cho Oyu. This was the 16th edition of the mountaineering award, created by the French Montagnes magazine, to honour the best mountaineering achievement of the previous year. |
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Group photo of the 16th Piolet d'or
One
could start with a snapshot to recount this latest Piolet d'or.
Naturally Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic are in the photo, raising
the Piolet d’or 2006 which they received for their beautiful route on
Chomo Lhari. And right next to them is Pavlev Kozjek, still incredulous
for having just received the Spectator's Choice for his solitary sprint
up Cho Oyu. Close to them there's a lively Denis Urubko who, utterly
convinced, is applauding the winners. And just a bit to his side - but
almost on a different planet altogether with his expression which
transmits goodheartedness and strength - one notes Serguey Samoilov,
Urubko's partner on the new route up Manaslu. The smiles of Tim Emmet
and Ian Parnell beam out from the center, and it was they who gave this
year's Piolet the "spirit" (read enthusiasm and new creativity) with
their new route on Kedarnath Dome. Igor Chaplinsky's moustache, and
verve, cannot remain unnoted either: together with Andrei Rodiontsev
and Oret Verbitsky he created a beautiful line up Shingu Charpa and in
doing so he taught all that mountaineering (even that of ideas) is a
timeless affair. The sound, which the photo is unable to provide, is
the applause of crowd. And what the photos cannot render are the
stories which sparkle in the climbers’ eyes during this 16th edition of
the mountaineering Oscars. This is perhaps the best part of it all. And
definitely the one worth recounting.
Stories of men, mountains, rock faces and dreams
The
Piolet 2006 is all about stories dreamt of, chased and realised on
distant mountains (this year all ascents took place in the Himalayas)
and via new routes. Naturally they are all different stories and
difficult to compare, since in mountaineering one lives for the
(unrepeatable) moment of action which is unique and never again equal.
All ascent have the same passion and direction in common. Or, better
still, a research called "alpine style", the true dream of
mountaineering. This starts with an idea (the mountain, the rock face,
the line) which is chased and dreamt of incessantly. Then, when the
"game" really begins, one sets off for the summit, naturally without
ever returning back to base. And it's a journey which is undertaken by
a select few, fewer, or even completely alone because the end of the
means is to climb lightweight and fast while searching for a new line,
for new mountains, new walls and new limits, both personal and to
mountaineering as a whole. The ingredients for success are much the
same, too: ideas, the search for adventure and the desire to put
oneself to the test (in all senses). To all of this there must also be
a good dose of luck... or rather, awareness and knowledge in taking the
right decisions in order to manage to understand, accept and overcome
the infinite number of variables the mountain holds in store (above all
in these Piolet ascents). The interpretation counts too; the how, the
most important factor in this context: mountains, routes, mountaineers
and their means all melt into a perfect experience. But, as all know,
perfection is not attainable, it can only be chased after...
Chomo Lhari, a perfect mountain for Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic
Great
moments repeat themselves throughout history although, admittedly, none
can ever be exactly the same as before. Something of this sort happened
on Friday evening at Grenoble when Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic
raised the golden ice axe of the 16th Piolet d'or. In the glimpse of an
eye. A flashback to imagine that young Marko who, together with Andrei
Stremfelj, raised the golden ice axe during the first edition of the
most prestigious mountaineering prizes sixteen years ago. The focus
immediately shifts back to today, to those profound and serious eyes
which have seen much, which have experienced plenty of mountaineering
based more on "facts" then words. At the time, during the 1991 edition,
Marko was rewarded for his fantastic new line up the immense South Face
of Kangchenjunga. Now, sixteen years on, that ice axe is his once
again. Once again for another new route, this time up Chomo Lhari, a
perfect mountain which lay in wait for a perfect interpretation: yes,
the one which the two Slovenians carried out last October.
A
return to the past therefore? No, not if you think about the altitude
(7326m) of the magnificent Chomo Lhari. Not if you think about the
difficulty (VI engagement and M6+ at high altitude). And not if you
think about the length (1950m) of the route. Decidedly not if you look
at the lightweight nature and speed of the ascent, and if you analyse
the perfection and beauty of it all. Of the mountain, its surrounding
landscape (the immense Tibetan desert) and that ethereal line which has
now been traced up its NW Pillar. It's difficult to elude Chomo Lhari's
charm. It's impossible not to be taken in by the route which Prezelj
patiently dreamt of for ten years and which, in the end, he climbed
together with Lorencic in 4 days of ascent and 2 days of descent. When
presenting his climb to the jury, other mountaineers and journalists on
Friday morning Marko exclaimed that he had come to recount his story. A
story, he added with a smile, which like all those mountaineering
stories, is true to a great extent... To me it seemed beautiful. Like
the part when his climbing partner persuaded him to continue just as he
(the leader) was about to give up. It goes without saying that Prezelj
is "tough". Someone who doesn't ever "spice" his stories. The ascent is
what counts for him. And for me Denis Urubko's phrase after the
ceremony counts for much: "I respect Marko!" And Pavlev Kozjek's remark
is equally important "I know Marko well. If he needed 4 days to climb
his route then it means it's impossible to climb it in less." These
words, and the respect of all the other mountaineers, say it all.
Cho Oyu speed for Pavlev Kozjek
When
you think about a new route up the 8201m high Cho Oyu raced solo in
less than 15 hours from base camp, with the minimum amount of gear,
then you expect some sort of marathon extended to high altitude. But
when you analyse the difficulties (VI “engagement” and 4+ at 7200m)
then you immediately realise that there is much more to this, that
there's a true mountaineer behind it all. And when you meet Pavlev
Kozjek there can be no doubts whatsoever. A gentle giant, with two
enormous shoulders. A mountaineer with first ascents on Cerro Torre,
and Shisha Pangma, and solos on great walls in the Cordillera Blanca.
You realise that you’re standing face to face with a great mountaineer
and a man of great calibre. If he talks about Cho Oyu, the first thing
he recounts is the tragedy he witnessed immediately before staring his
incredible ascent. The Chinese Army killing of three Tibetans
attempting to cross the border into Nepal literally shook and disturbed
Kozjek. He was the one who first transmitted the photos of the killing
(and assassination) throughout the world. "Afterwards if was hard to
set off for the summit... I did it with death in my heart" he added.
But Kozjek succeeded in his great ascent. And in so doing he rendered
the highest mountains in the world naked and vulnerable to what can
still be done in the future. He did it, and this shouldn't be
underestimated, at 47 (!) years of age. So the Spectator's Choice was
awarded perfectly once again. It's curious to note that the two Piolets
(Jury and Spectators) went to two Slovenian mountaineers. And Pavlev
added that Slovenia is comprised of just two million people...
Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov double take on Manaslu
After
their (great) new route up the S Face of Broad Peak (8047m) climbed in
2005, Urubko and Samoilov repeated a similar fear in 2006 with a new
route up the NE Face of Manaslu (8163m). Two new routes climbed alpine
style in just two years on the 8000m peaks is almost a record in its
own right... It didn't come about by chance therefore that the ascent
carried out by two Kazakh mountaineers was rewarded with the first ever
Piolet d’or Asia and that they were nominated for the Piolet d'or for
the second year running. If you ask Denis about how the two routes
differ, he'll say that Broad Peak was technically more demanding but
that Manaslu was definitely more dangerous. Just glance at the massive
seracs which loom above the first section of the mountain and you'll
immediately take his word for it. And the rocky final section was by no
means a walkover either, seeing that the 6a+ grade they gave is worth
double at that altitude. Four days ascent and two days descent give a
clear idea of what Denis and Serguey are capable of. Another glance at
the photo reveals how deep the snow was. Add to this the amount of
gear, stripped bare to the bone (just one sleeping bag, 1 duvet jacket,
very little food etc)... Well, you get only a slight inkling of how
much fatigue (infinite) these two can bear. All that remains to be said
is that Denis described his alpinism as follows: "As a young boy I read
books about Messner. It's because of this that I've always dreamt of
climbing 8000m peaks in alpine style, on-sight and via a new route"
Denis is truly living out his childhood dreams, 100%!
Ian Parnell and Tim Emmett, the future on Kedarnath Dome
Tim
Emmett has a passion, excuse me, many passions. He is one of the most
famous rock climbers in Britain and his activities touch rock in all
its dimensions, from deep water solos to the crag, via hard grit trad
routes... Just think that he often teams up with Leo Houlding and
together they enjoy themselves base jumping. But Tim doesn't disdain
mountaineering either and he proved just this when the highly
experienced Ian Parnell asked him (at a party, naturally) to climb
together on 6830m high Kedarnath Dome. Once said, immediately done. The
two Brits ascended the SE pillar in 6 days, finding the perfect way
(the most logical and easiest line) to climb the 2000m to the summit.
Close to the top Tim climbed the crux 6c pitch but according to him,
the "extremely friable" 6a rock start proved more demanding
psychologically. Tim exclaimed that he experienced a very particular
moment when he realised he had past the point of no return... A smiling
and relaxed juror, Steve House, immediately replied: "Welcome to
alpinism, Tim..." Yes, welcome. Your enthusiasm and high spirits
(behind which, all know, lies immense strength) can do us all a world
of good.
Igor Chaplinsky, Andrei Rodiontsev, Oret Verbitsky and the (beautiful) Shingu Charpa
Igor,
you're a legend! is what Tim Emmett said on stage in Grenoble. And yes,
we think so too! The Ukranians Igor Chaplinsky, Andrei Rodiontsev and
Oret Verbitsky made the first ascent of a beautiful route (both logical
and esthetical) up the fantastic Shingu Charpa (5600m). The three
climbed past 7a+ rock, M5 delicate mixed close to the summit and
"engagement" graded VI in 5 days ascent and 2 descent. Obviously in
alpine style. "Three is the best number for a climbing party" Igor
declared. "And if you have to make some important decisions democracy
rules. Even if, at the end of the day, I get to make the final
decision!" he immediately added laughing heartedly. Ay yes, because
this form of "lightness" is good for alpine style, as well.
See you all at the Piolet 2007, definitely with other (great) stories!
Vinicio Stefanello
A personal and special thanks goes to the entire jury with whom I had the honour of working with: Yuri
Koshelenko (super president, Piolet d'or 2003), Michel Piola (a legend,
and Piolet d'or 1992), Steve House and Vince Anderson (Piolet d'or
2005), Christian Trommsdorff (Piolet 2005 nominee), Im Duck Yong
(founder of the Asian Piolet d'or) and the editors of Montagnes
Magazine.
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