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Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
23.09.2014 by Camilo Rada in Alpinism

Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition

The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo Rada.

Alexander Megos and the art of dynoing
22.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos and the art of dynoing

The video of Alexander Megos dynoing up two large boulder problems at Rocklands, South Africa

Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
22.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod

On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.

Akiyo Noguchi and Sean McColl win the adidas Rockstars 2014
21.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Akiyo Noguchi and Sean McColl win the adidas Rockstars 2014

The adidas Rockstars 2014 was won in Stuttgart, Germany, by Akiyo Noguchi and Sean McColl. Mina Marcovic and Jongwon Chon placed second, Petra Klingler and Jernej Kruder third.

adidas Rockstars Live
20.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

adidas Rockstars Live

Live streaming of the adidas Rockstars finals (Saturday, from 20:00 CET), an invitational Masters with some of the world's best boulderers.

 Zippettes: the art of slipping off a hold
20.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Zippettes: the art of slipping off a hold

The video of Giuliano Cameroni demonstrating the art of 'Zippettes', how to slip off holds when climbing and bouldering.

Magic of Limestone, the Gran Sasso bouldering film
19.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Magic of Limestone, the Gran Sasso bouldering film

The trailer of the film Magia di Calcare (Magic of Limestone) by Roberto Parisse that documents the history of bouldering at the Gran Sasso in central Italy and the making of the guidebook, due out in spring 2015.

International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment
19.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment

At the International Mountain Summit 2014, that will take place in Brixen, Italy, from 16 - 21 October there are two important days organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and his director Dott. Luigi Festi. The first, on 17 October, is entitled 'A mountain of words, images, emotions, colors' while the second on 18 October is entitled 'Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?' and will host an international meeting discussing the use of doping in alpinism and mountain sports.

Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
18.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Events

Orcoblocco, a successful first bouldering meeting in Valle dell'Orco, Italy

The short report of the first Orcoblocco, the bouldering meeting that took place at Ceresole Reale, in Valle dell' Orco (NE Italy) from 12 to 14 September 2014.

Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
18.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein

Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein, currently touring the Rocky Mountains National Park where the Dutchman recently sent The Wheel Of Chaos V14 (8B+) and the Austrian repeated Riddles in the Park V12 (8A+), provide insight into one of the most famous bouldering areas in the USA.

Monte Pelmo in watercolour by Riccarda de Eccher
17.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Monte Pelmo in watercolour by Riccarda de Eccher

Riccarda de Eccher in this video, filmed by her son Nick Goldston, creates her vision of Mount Pelmo and the Dolomites in the impalpable languages of watercolours and art.

Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
17.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia

This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris Warner.

Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland
16.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland

Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè recount how Kalymnos appears towards the end of summer 2014. An island seemingly made for all the climbers in the world

Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
16.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites

On 17/08/2014 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first one day ascent of Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch 8a, a route established in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.

Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
15.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger

This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.

Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
15.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites

Giovanni Bergamin, Francesco Leardi, Giuliano Pettenuzzo and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of Forza 5 (280m, 6b/A1), a new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites.

Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!
14.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!

This evening at Gijón in Spain Adam Ondra and Jain Kim won the Lead World Championship 2014. Silver was won by Ramon Julien Puigblanque and Mina Markovic, bronze by Sachi Amma e Magdalena Röck. Speed was won by Danyl Boldyrev and Alina Gaidamakina, while Urko Carmona Barandiaran and Christa Brelsford, Mathieu Besnard and Elodie Orbaen, Koichiro Kobayashi and Alessia Refolo, and András Szijártó won their respective categories of the Paraclimbing World Championships.

Anak Verhoven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup
12.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Anak Verhoven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup

Belgian climber Anak Verhoven has redpointed Ultimate Sacrifice 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup, France.

GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone
12.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Events

GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone

The 'GraMitico' bouldering meeting will take place in Valle di Daone (Italy) from 13 - 14 September 2014

Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites
12.09.2014 by Molveno Holiday in Alpinism

Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites

The final dispatch of the Discover Brenta Dolomites project that organised a series of events by Molveno Holiday, APT Dolomiti Paganella and the municipality of Molveno to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of alpinism in the Brenta Dolomites.

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