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Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Traversia del Oso Buddha in Patagonia
25.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climb Traversia del Oso Buddha in Patagonia

From 18 - 21 January 2015 Colin Haley and Marc-Andre Leclerc climbed Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, This new traverse from south to north has been called Traversia del Oso Buddha, in memory of Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Chad Kellogg.

Klemen Bečan is Dedicated at Chulilla in Spain
24.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Klemen Bečan is Dedicated at Chulilla in Spain

The video of Slovenian climber Klemen Becan who made the first ascent, onsight, of Siempre se Puede Hacer Menos, a possible 8c+ at Chulilla in Spain a few weeks ago.

Meru at the Sundance Film Festival
23.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Meru at the Sundance Film Festival

This evening Meru will première at the Sundance Film Festival. The film documents the first ascent of Shark's Fin up the NW face of Meru (6310), Himalaya, carried out in 2011 by American alpinists Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin and Renan Ozturk.

Swatch Freeride World Tour by The North Face: Chamonix kick-off
23.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Swatch Freeride World Tour by The North Face: Chamonix kick-off

The Swatch Freeride World Tour 2015 by The North Face kicks off tomorrow with the first stage in Chamonix, France.

Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson make onsight first ascent of The Greatest Show On Earth in Scotland
22.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson make onsight first ascent of The Greatest Show On Earth in Scotland

On 19 January 2014 Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson made the first ascent, onsight, of The Greatest Show On Earth, a six pitch outing on Cul Mor in Scotland. If the grade is confirmed, this is quite possibly the first onsight ascent of a grade X/10 winter climb in Britain.

Progetto Icaro at Santa Caterina, Italy

Progetto Icaro at Santa Caterina, Italy

The report about the first stage of Progetto Icaro 2014/2015 that took place at Santa Caterina, Alta Valtellina on Monday 22 December 2014.

Jacopo Larcher - Evolve
21.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Jacopo Larcher - Evolve

The trailer for the short film Evolve that documents the evolution of Jacopo Larcher, as a climber and also as a person.

Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project
21.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project

British mountaineer Tom Ballard, as part of his project Starlight and Storm to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter, has recently climbed the Comici - Dimai route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and the Cassin route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

Triglav and Travnik, important winter ascents in Slovenia by Mrak, Vukotič and Marčič
20.01.2015 by Matevž Mrak in Alpinism

Triglav and Travnik, important winter ascents in Slovenia by Mrak, Vukotič and Marčič

From  23 - 26 December young Slovenian alpinists Matevž Mrak (23) and Matevž Vukotič (24) made the second winter ascent, and first ever from the base of the face, of one of Slovenia’s most famous routes, Obraz Sfinge on the North Face of Triglav. They did so by climbing the Prusik - Szalay route, for an outing graded VI, M6+ R, AI4, VII- A1 (1000m, 1600m total length ). On 10 January 2015 Mrak, Vukotič and Nejc Marčič (29) made the second winter ascent of the Sveča route (VII- M, 800m) on Travnik in an 18-hour push. Matevž Mrak provides the details.

Adam Ondra, climbing and video interview from King Rock Verona
20.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Adam Ondra, climbing and video interview from King Rock Verona

Video interview starring Adam Ondra, filmed on Sunday, 18 January 2015, at the King Rock Verona climbing gym where the Czech climber was a guest and climbed with his fans.

Effimera, Matteo Bernasconi's Pizzo Badile dream
20.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Effimera, Matteo Bernasconi's Pizzo Badile dream

The short film directed by Riky Felderer about Matteo Bernasconi and his desire to make the first ascent of a new mixed route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell and The Wall of Early Morning Light on El Capitan
19.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell and The Wall of Early Morning Light on El Capitan

Archive footage of Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell topping out on El Capitan, Yosemite, after the first ascent in 1970 of Dawn Wall, aka The Wall of Early Morning Light.

 Nanga Parbat in winter, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol return to Base Camp after reaching 7800m
19.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nanga Parbat in winter, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol return to Base Camp after reaching 7800m

News just in: France’s Elisabeth Revol and Poland’s Tomasz Mackiewicz have returned to base camp of Nanga Parbat after reaching 7800m during their attempt to make the first winter ascent of this 8126m giant in the Karakorum. This historic feat on the 9th highest mountain in the world is also being attempted by several other expeditions: on the Diamir side the Italians Daniele Nardi and Roberto Delle Monache, on the Rupal Face the Russians Serguey Kondrashkin, Victor Koval, Valery Shamalo and Nickolay Totmjanin. In addition, they will shortly be joined by Spaniard Alex Txikon, the Pakistanis Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Muhammad Khan and an Iranian expedition.

First ski descents in the Dolomites by Vascellari, D'Alpaos and De Barba

First ski descents in the Dolomites by Vascellari, D'Alpaos and De Barba

Between February and May 2014, Italian skiers Francesco Vascellari, Davide D'Alpaos and Loris De Barba carried out a series of first ski descents to solve some old problems in the Dolomites. They concluded their run with a repeat of the East Face of the Matterhorn, first skied by Tone Valeruz in 1975.

Climbing and training: Campus Board and the 5 mistakes to be avoided
17.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Climbing and training: Campus Board and the 5 mistakes to be avoided

The video tutorial by Christian Core of Dr. Kelios Bonetti explaining the five most common mistakes while training with a Campus Board that force climbers to stop training.

Angelika Rainer and the Ouray Ice Festival
16.01.2015 by Angelika Rainer in Climbing

Angelika Rainer and the Ouray Ice Festival

The report by Angelika Rainer about the Ouray Ice Festival, the ice climbing meeting andthe competition that took place from 8 - 11 January, won by Italian ice climber and Canada’s Will Gadd

La Divina Commedia at Buco del Piombo climbed by Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera
16.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Climbing

La Divina Commedia at Buco del Piombo climbed by Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera

The video of La Divina Commedia, the route first ascended by Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera at Buco del Piombo in Valle Bova, Italy, freed in July 2014 with difficulties up to 8b+ (7a obligatory).

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
15.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan

On 15 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with two pitches graded 5.14d (9a), this is probably the hardest big wall in the world.

Wadi Rum, Jordan: Kristoffy and Krasnansky climb their Fatal Attraction
14.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Wadi Rum, Jordan: Kristoffy and Krasnansky climb their Fatal Attraction

In December 2014 the Slovakian rock climbers Jozo Kristoffy and Martin Krasnansky made the first ascent of Fatal Attraction (8a+, 450m) at Jebel Rum, a contender for the hardest multi-pitch climb in Jordan.

A line, the attempt up the West Ridge of lllimani
13.01.2015 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

A line, the attempt up the West Ridge of lllimani

The documentary of Marco Erbetta, Enrico Rosso and Padre Antonio Zavattarelli attempting to climb the West Ridge of llimani, Cordillera Real, Andes, Bolivia.

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