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Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
16.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites

On 17/08/2014 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first one day ascent of Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch 8a, a route established in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.

Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
15.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger

This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.

Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
15.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites

Giovanni Bergamin, Francesco Leardi, Giuliano Pettenuzzo and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of Forza 5 (280m, 6b/A1), a new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites.

Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!
14.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!

This evening at Gijón in Spain Adam Ondra and Jain Kim won the Lead World Championship 2014. Silver was won by Ramon Julien Puigblanque and Mina Markovic, bronze by Sachi Amma e Magdalena Röck. Speed was won by Danyl Boldyrev and Alina Gaidamakina, while Urko Carmona Barandiaran and Christa Brelsford, Mathieu Besnard and Elodie Orbaen, Koichiro Kobayashi and Alessia Refolo, and András Szijártó won their respective categories of the Paraclimbing World Championships.

Anak Verhoven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup
12.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Anak Verhoven climbs 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup

Belgian climber Anak Verhoven has redpointed Ultimate Sacrifice 8c+ at the Gorges du Loup, France.

GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone
12.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Events

GraMitico Valdaone 2014 bouldering meeting in Valle di Daone

The 'GraMitico' bouldering meeting will take place in Valle di Daone (Italy) from 13 - 14 September 2014

Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites
12.09.2014 by Molveno Holiday in Alpinism

Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites

The final dispatch of the Discover Brenta Dolomites project that organised a series of events by Molveno Holiday, APT Dolomiti Paganella and the municipality of Molveno to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of alpinism in the Brenta Dolomites.

Alexander Megos locates Geocache in the Frankenjura
11.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alexander Megos locates Geocache in the Frankenjura

On 10/09/2014 Germany's Frankenjura Alexander Megos made the first ascent of Geocache, repeated Action Directe 9a and climbed Sundance Kid 9a.

Tor des Géants, a journey between the competition, the celebrations and the mountains. By Linda Cottino
11.09.2014 by Linda Cottino in Competitions

Tor des Géants, a journey between the competition, the celebrations and the mountains. By Linda Cottino

After the victory of local runner Franco Collé, followed by Nichademus Hollon (USA) and the Frenchmen Antoine Guillon and Christophe Le-Saux, France's Emilie Lecomte crossed the finishing line last night after 85 hours and 53 minutes, setting a new female track record. Italy's Lisa Barzani finished second in 94 hours and 43 minutes. While the finishing line will officially close on Saturday, runners continue to arrive at Courmayeur. The time has come to share some thoughts about this great tour of the Valle d'Aosta. The report and ideas of Linda Cottino.

Climbing at Frea, Dolomites
11.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Climbing at Frea, Dolomites

The historic crag Frea, just below the Gardena Pass in the Italian Dolomites. Part 5 of the series 'Crags for each season' published together with Vertical-Life.info.

Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
10.09.2014 by Alessandro Beber in Alpinism

Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso

The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first ascent of Via Attraverso il Tempo (420m, VIII) up the SW Face of Campanile Basso, a new route climbed in August 2014 together with Alessandro Baù and Matteo Faletti.

Nalle Hukkataival climbs difficult new Grampians boulders
10.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Nalle Hukkataival climbs difficult new Grampians boulders

In the Grampians, Australia, Nalle Hukkataival has climbed a series of difficult new boulder problems including Road Sweet Home (V15).

Franco Collé wins the Tor des Géants 2014
10.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Franco Collé wins the Tor des Géants 2014

This morning Franco Collé won the Tor des Géants 2014 after 71 hours and 49 minutes. All the other athletes competing in the endurance trail across the 4000m peaks in Italy's Valle d'Aosta, via the 330km and 24,000m elevation gain course, have until 13 September to complete the grueling race.

Condemned? Alpinism, alpinists and the love for the mountains. By Ivo Ferrari
10.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Condemned? Alpinism, alpinists and the love for the mountains. By Ivo Ferrari

A passion, even alpinism and climbing, requires a lot, at times even too much. Is it really necessary? Perhaps it is, because even the happiness that stems from alpinism and climbing has another side of the coin, that must be recognised and accepted so that it can be "governed". It's our love, and perhaps we're condemned to keep it, beyond the good and evil. Here's how Ivo Ferarri tells us of his "condemnation".

Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses
09.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Corrado Pesce and his Polish route solo up Grandes Jorasses

On Monday 8 September the Italian alpinist Corrado "Korra" Pesce made a fast solo ascent of the Polish route up Pointe Helene on the North Face of the Grande Jorasses (Mont Blanc).

British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson
09.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

British trad: great Pembroke climbs by Caroline Ciavaldini, Yuji Hirayama and James Pearson

At Pembroke in Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has climbed Mercia Wall E8, Yuji Hirayama has climbed The Big Issue E9 while James Pearson has made a flash ascent of Something's Burning E9. Caroline Ciavaldini talks us through these three difficult trad climbs.

Tor des Géants, the race is in full swing
09.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Tor des Géants, the race is in full swing

The fifth edition of the Tor des Géant, the great endurance trail race across the 4000m peaks in Italy's Valle d'Aosta, is currently in full swing.

Greenland 2014: Baffin Island and Sam Ford Fjord for Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
08.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Greenland 2014: Baffin Island and Sam Ford Fjord for Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva

The second dispatch from Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva about their Greenland 2014 expedition.

European Boulder Youth Championships: all the results
07.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Competitions

European Boulder Youth Championships: all the results

The European Boulder Youth Championships 2014 concluded today at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Youth B was won by Slovenia's Janja Garnbret and Matic Kotar. Youth A was won by Austria's Franziska Sterrerand Switzerland's Baptiste Ometz. The Juniors category was won by Austria's Jessica Pilz and Germany's David Firnenburg.

Sir Chris Bonington and the video of The Old Man of Hoy
07.09.2014 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Sir Chris Bonington and the video of The Old Man of Hoy

The video of legendary British alpinist Sir Chris Bonington talking about the meaning of his recent climb, The Old Man of Hoy aged 80.

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