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Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
05.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites

British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.

Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
05.02.2016 by Arnaud Petit in Climbing

Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior

The climbing report by French climber Arnaud Petit who in January 2016, together with Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior, established a host of new sport climbs in the Valley of Giants and Wadi Bani Khalid in Oman, before repeating routes at Hadash and on Jebel Misht.

Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach

From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out by David Lama (20-21/01/2012 together with Peter Ortner, with a variation on the headwall) is also the first and so far only totally free ascent. The second ascent was carried out by the Slovenians Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj. The report by Matteo Della Bordella.

Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona
04.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona

Italian climber Luca Rinaldi has repeated Off the Wagon, the boulder problem graded 8B+ located in Valle Bavona, Switzerland.

Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)

Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit of Cerro Torre, and 32 hours in total to return to their starting point. The first Torre Traverse was carried out over 4 days in 2008 by Haley together with Rolando Garibotti.

New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico

From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.

Alpine Wall Tour with Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek
02.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Alpine Wall Tour with Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek

The trailer of the Alpine Wall Tour, carried out by Polish climbers Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek on five difficult rock climbs in the Alps: End of Silence (Berchtesgaden Alps) Silbergeier (Rätikon), Des Kaisers neue Kleider (Wilder Kaiser) Brento Centro (Monte Brento), Bellavista (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites)

Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria
02.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Eispark Osttirol, the new ice climbing venue in Austria

The Eispark Osttirol, a new ice climbing crag with approximately 50 artificial icefalls, has been inaugurated close to the Matreier Tauernhaus in East Tirol, Austria.

Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
01.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin

Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed by Rolando Larcher and "Conosci te stesso?" (E7 6c or 8a), a trad pitch first ascended by Larcher.

Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016
01.02.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov win the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016

The final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 took place last weekend at Rabenstein - Corvara in Italy. After four competitions, both the Lead and Speed World Cups were won by the Russians Maria Tolokonina and Maxim Tomilov. Lead stage victory went ot Janez Svoljšak from Slovenia and Han Na Rai Song from Korea, while the fastest Speed climbers were Radomir Proshchenko and Tolokonina. Corvara also awarded the European Championship title, won by Svoljšak and Switzerland's Petra Klingler (Lead) and by Proshchenko and Tolokonina (Speed).

Ice Climbing World Cup at Rabenstein - live streaming
30.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup at Rabenstein - live streaming

The final stage of the Ice Climbing world Cup 2016 began this morning at Rabenstein, Italy.

Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how Patagonia once used to be
29.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how Patagonia once used to be

Ermanno Salvaterra documents the climbing and Patagonia in1993-94 in this video, Fuiste Alpiste, recently updated with names of the climbers of those unforgettable six months spent, more than twenty years ago, at the base camp of Cerro Torre.

Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
29.01.2016 by Maurizio Oviglia in Climbing

Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy

Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.

Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy
28.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marianne van der Steen D13+ drytooling flash at Bus del Quai, Italy

On 26 January 2016 at Bus del Quai di Iseo (Italy) Dutch climber Marianne van der Steen managed to flash Kamasutra, a drytooling climb graded D13+.

Adiós Iñaki Coussirat
28.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Adiós Iñaki Coussirat

On 21/01/2015 Inaki Coussirat died while climbing Cerro Fitz Roy in Patagonia. Marcello Cominetti remembers the promising young Argentine alpinist.

Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
27.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Events

Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report

The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.

Video: David Lama and Conrad Anker attempt Lunag Ri
26.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Video: David Lama and Conrad Anker attempt Lunag Ri

The video of the attempt by David Lama and Conrad Anker to climb Lunag Ri, a 6907m high mountain located on the border between Nepal and Tibet.

Ice Climbing World Cup: Russians take gold in Saas Fee
26.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup: Russians take gold in Saas Fee

The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2016 took place in Saas Fee, Switzerland from 22 - 23 January 2016. Russians Maxim Tomilov and Maria Tolokonina won the Lead discipline, while Speed was won by teammates Nikolei Kuzovlev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

Piolets d'Or 2016 moves to La Grave-La Meije
26.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Piolets d'Or 2016 moves to La Grave-La Meije

The press release of the 24th edition of the prestigious international mountaineering award Piolet d’Or that will be celebrated from 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave-La Meije, France.

Altri cieli, art and climbing at Ulassai in Sardinia
25.01.2016 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Altri cieli, art and climbing at Ulassai in Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia introduces Altri Cieli, the documentary about the little Sardinian village of Ulassai that combines rock climbing with art, starting from the artist Maria Lai.

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