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Gorillas im Nebel

Austria>Tyrol>Central Alps>Zillertal

Albert Leichtfried, Mountain Guide

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Gorillas im Nebel: Benedikt Purner on pitch 3 of Gorillas im Nebel, Zillertal, Austria

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Albert Leichtfried & Benedikt Purner, 10/02/2010, ground up, RP Albert Leichtfried & Benedikt Purner, 15/02/2010

Albert Leichtfried, Mountain Guide

Length

120m

Difficulty

M10/WI6

Route

The setting for Gorillas im Nebel is awesome, wedged between the dark, mighty granite walls and the bizarre ice drips. A dreamline which, despite being mixed, has a high percentage of water ice.

Getting there
Drive along the Zillertal past Mayrhofen and towards Ginzling. Park the car after Gasthof Karlsteg, between the two avalanche tunnels and shortly before reaching Ginzling. Itinerary
Solo to base of route WI3/10m
P1: M8+, 40m, 5 bolts & 3 pegs
P2: M10, 30m, 8 bolts & 1 peg
P3: WI6, 40m
Descent
Abalakov abseils (2 x 60m) Gear
12 quickdraws, Cams 0,4-3, short screws Notes
The walk-in and descent area is extremely prone to avalanches