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Drapeaux d’enfer

First ascent: Enrico Bonino, Filippo Gonnelli 15/02/2010
By: Enrico Bonino
Area: Western Alps, Group: Valle di Champorcher, Height: 1000m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Nice logical mixed line with delicate ice, first ascended with trad pro only. The route takes a line up the to the left of Zero 70, first ascended on 15/01/2010 by Giampiero Bertotti, Stefano dalla Gasperina, Enrico Bonino and Sofia Palmisano.

GETTING THERE

From Turin take the A5 TO-AO motorway and exit at Pont Saint Martin. Take the SS26 towards Aosta and turn off left when crossing the river Dora for Champorcher. Ascend the valley to Trambesere. Park the car on the right and walk through the village on the other side of the road.

ACCESS

From Trambesere cross the bridge and river. Scramble up through the wood as best possible to reach the base of the icefall (clearly visible from the road) in circa 15 minutes.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route or traverse right to reach the abseils of Zero 70 which are located on a tree, 30m to the right.

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack, Camalot 0.3, 0.75, slings.

NOTES

For the record: during our first ascent we split the second pitch into two as we didn't know whether we'd have enough gear for the roof and we didn't know what the terrain held in store. We belayed on ice before the mixed section, which then became our third pitch. Immediately above the difficult section we discover a comfortable ledge, festooned with cracks which allowed us to establish a safe belay which is also useful during the descent. For this reason we feel it is logical to run the second pitch up to this belay.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

5+/6, M5+, X,II

FACE

East. The route does not receive the sun as it is wedged into the valley.

LENGTH

95m

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