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Cadarese Hot Spring

First ascent: Andrea Gamberini & Francesco “Cecco” Vaudo, 31/01/2010
By: Francesco “Cecco” Vaudo
Area: Western Alps, Group: Valle Antigorio, Peak: Val d'Ossola, Height: 900m, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

Obvious drip, clearly visible from the road which leads to Val Formazza. The icefall offers interesting, pleasant climbing close to a granite quarry and close to the Premia spa at Cadarese.

GETTING THERE

From Domodossola drive north and then take the SS659 north for Baceno and Val Formazza to Cadarese. Park opposite the Hotel Monte Giove at Cadarese.

ACCESS

From the car park walk up the road which leads to the obvious granite quarry. The route starts on the right-hand side of the quarry (10 minute walk-in).

ROUTE

The first 30m pitch offers beautiful climbing up to 85°. From the belay ascend a false plateau to reach the base of the second pitch which offers 60°/70° ice. The same holds true for the third pitch, same steepness, which leads to the base of a 35m, 85°/90° drip. The remaining pitches are no steeper than 70°.

DESCENT

Tree abseil. The descent was carried out on the hydrographic right.

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack. 60m ropes useful for the abseils.

NOTES

The drip is located next to a quarry and during the week the noise may be disturbing... climbing at the weekend highly recommended therefore.

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II/4+ 5

FACE

West

LENGTH

350m

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