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La prima volta

First ascent: Roberto Misson, Luca Chiarcos (Gruppo Rocciatori Orsi Codroipo) 31/01/2009
By: Roberto Misson, Luca Chiarcos
Area: Julian Alps, Group: Mangart, Height: 1100m, Country: Italy, Region: Friuli Venezia Giulia

Short and fun route. The first section is easy and fun, while the second is slightly more demandind and climbs a mixed section up a crimpy slab and poor rock.

GETTING THERE

From Udine: take the A23 motorway and exit at Camporosso. Continue towards Tarvisio (3km) and then follow signs for Fusine. Continue for Laghi di Fusine to the second lake.

ACCESS

From the second lake head towards Rifugio Zacchi. Cira 100m after the fork for Picco di Mezzodì, take the small track on the left which wades across the river bed. Ascend through the forest to the opening where the drip spings into view. Scramble up the steep slope to the start of the route. This is located circa 200m before Eros and The Prophet (15 minutes).

ROUTE

P1: climb 35m up to a small ledge (1 peg belay), difficulties 3+
P2: from the ledge climb through the short overhang to reach the vertical corner to the obvious roof were the corner terminates (25m M5+)

DESCENT

Abseil down the line of ascent (2 pegs).

GEAR

Normal ice climbing gear, medium length ice screws. Two in-situ pegs.

NOTES

Avalanche danger from the slopes above after heavy snowfall.

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DIFFICULTY

II 3+ M5+

FACE

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LENGTH

60m

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