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En attendant Marlier

First ascent: Adriano Trombetta, Roberto Rossi, Paolo Intropido
By: Enrico Bonino
Area: Central Alps, Group: Valtournenche, Height: 1250m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

Long and demanding icefall which usually has a drytooling start graded M7+. In 2009 a column of ice came into condition along the entire rock face, and the climb was therefore formed completely.

GETTING THERE

From Turin take the motorway north towards France and exit at Chatillon. Continue towards Cervinia. Shortly after Anty Saint André pass the fork for Chesod and park the car immediately after the avalanche tunnel.
From Chamonix drive through the Mont Blanc tunnel and reach Courmayeur. Follow the main road towards Chatillon. Drive up Valtournenche to reach the avalanche tunnel.

ACCESS

From where you park the car on the right, cross the road and ascend the gully which leads to the obvious icefall.

DESCENT

A bolt with maillon rapide placed at the top of the route is used for the first abseil. The second is done via Abalakov: return diagonally to the belay above the drip. This belay had originally been established with only one bolt but was backed up with a peg, thread and maillon rapide during our ascent.

GEAR

Normal ice climbing gear. 2 pegs, rescue beacon, shovel, probe.

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DIFFICULTY

5/III

FACE

E

LENGTH

160m

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