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Alta tensione

First ascent: Francesco Vaudo, Mauro Piccione, Massimo Coccalatto 25/01/2009
By: Francesco Vaudo
Area: Western Alps, Group: Ossola-Gole di Gondo, Height: 1260m, Country: Switzerland, Region: Vallese

The route takes a line on the extreme righthand side of the drip. After a brief 7m vertical start follow a ramp right to the base of the vertical section. Climb another 5 or 6 meters and belay protected from the drips above. Now climb left to reach a second vertical section, from here continue for circa 30m to finish at the sling on the tree. A 60m abseil leads back to the base of the climb.

GETTING THERE

Reach the Gondoschlucht by driving towards the Simplon Pass which separtes Switzerland from Italy. From the pass drive north into Switzerland towards the village Gabi.

ACCESS

Park the car at the first layby on the left immediately after the short tunnel before reaching Gabi. Return on foot through the tunnel and ascend the slopes above the road. Coast the rocky bastion and small stram to reach the base of the icefall.

DESCENT

60m abseil, then continue down on foot along the line of ascent.

GEAR

Normal ice climbing gear.

NOTES

Watch out for the sun which reaches the icefall from circa 10-11 am then returns to the exiting snow fields.

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LENGTH

60m

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