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Gondo Gully

First ascent: Francesco Vaudo, Andrea Gamberini, Elio Bonfanti 18/01/09
By: Cecco Vaudo
Area: Western Alps, Group: Ossola-Gole di Gondo, Peak: Parete nascosta, Height: 1460m, Country: Switzerland, Region: Ossola

The ice gully forms in the large cleft on the Parete Nascosta to the left of the summer rock route Madame Babette. The route climbs up interesting mixed sections and the crux 4th pitch climbs through an overhang. Three of the six pitches are completely iced up and circa 80-85°.

GETTING THERE

Reach the Gondoschlucht by driving towards the Simplon Pass which separtes Switzerland from Italy. From the pass drive north into Switzerland to the third avalanche tunnel. Park the car as you enter the tunnel on the right in the obvious carpark (3 places).

ACCESS

The walk-in takes circa 15 minutes from the carpark: follow the road parallel to the tunnel until this leads above the tunnel itself. The goulotte can be seen clearly from here.

DESCENT

Abseil descent. The first abseil is from a wedged rock with sling left in-situ. The second abseil is via Abalakov, while the remaining abseils are down the summer routes Madame babette and Chicca e ricchi.

GEAR

Gear for ice and mixed climbing. Camming devices up to #3, 4 pegs.

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