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Impatience

First ascent: F. Damilano & G. Perroux 1989
By: Mario Sertori
Area: Ecrins, Group: Valle di Freissinières, Height: 1600m, Country: France, Region: Haut Dauphiné

Pleasant ice fall in beautiful setting. Cross the river via a fixed rope, then climb the steep wall to reach a splendid section of cauliflower ice which makes this route unique. The crux pitch can be avoided by climbing to the left.

GETTING THERE

From Briançon take the RN 94 to Argentière–La Bessèe. Three kilometers after Argentière and just before Roche de Rame turn off right, drive beneath the railway tunnel to Freissinières (7/8km). Continue on from here past the Les Viollins and Mensals to where the road finishes in a car park close to the beautiful Dormillouse hamlet. The road is often closed due to snow at Mensals, which results in an additional 30 minute walk-in.

ACCESS

From the car cark continue on foot along the road to beneath the unmistakable Tete de Gramusat. Calculate circa 1 hour, less if poor snow conditions enable you to drive further. Reach the car park at Dormillouse, then continue along the path for the village and after circa 10 minutes reach a fork and bear left for Col des Terres Blanches. After circa 1 hour the drips appear on the right. From the path descend to the river to reach the base of the route (fixed rope on a tree). Walk-in: 2.15 hours.

DESCENT

Tree abseil, then on foot to the right of the drip close by, then one final abseil.

NOTES

Map route 10.

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DIFFICULTY

III/5

FACE

NW

LENGTH

150m

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