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Gramusat Direct

First ascent: F. Damilano & R. Clothier
By: Mario Sertori
Area: Ecrins, Group: Valle di Freissinières, Height: 1600m, Country: France, Region: Haut Dauphiné

Gramusat Direct is a beautiful and logical line, a true classic. Unlike its name suggest, the seven exciting pitches weave their way though the wall in search of the easiest way up. Three bolts on the second pitch protect the climb to the drips overhead.

GETTING THERE

From Briançon take the RN 94 to Argentière–La Bessèe. Three kilometers after Argentière and just before Roche de Rame turn off right, drive beneath the railway tunnel to Freissinières (7/8km). Continue on from here past the Les Viollins and Mensals to where the road finishes in a car park close to the beautiful Dormillouse hamlet. The road is often closed due to snow at Mensals, which results in an additional 30 minute walk-in.

ACCESS

From the car cark continue on foot along the road to beneath the unmistakable Tete de Gramusat. Calculate circa 1 hour, less if poor snow conditions enable you to drive further. The base of the route is located in the middle of the Tete de Gramusat, to the right of the rocky section which hosts some mixed lines. Walk-in: 1 hour 15 minutes.

DESCENT

At the top traverse right along snow-covered ledges to reach the spur which marks the end of this face. 6 equipped abseils, the first from a tree.

NOTES

Map route 7.

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III/5+

FACE

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LENGTH

320m

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