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Illusione Ottica

First ascent: M. Sertori & M. Beltramini 1998
By: Mario Sertori
Area: Central Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Height: 2300m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Nice icefall, unfortunately somewhat short. From afar it looks as if the vertical section could be much longer, and it gets its name because of this. A great climb for beginners, in a fantastic setting.

GETTING THERE

From Milan drive to Lecco and then Colico along the SS 36, then continue along the SS 38 to Bormio. From here take the SS 301 towards Livigno and the Foscagno Pass 2291 m.The Forcola pass which connects Valle di Livigno with Valle di Poschiavo is open from May to November only.

ACCESS

From the car park at the start of Val Viera walk up the valley to the first importnat river that joins from the left (hydrogrphic right). The icefall can be made out high on the left in the upper section of a redish gully. This short drip is immediately to the left of a parralel running, easier angled second drip called Gocce di Sole III/3 50m). Scramble up the increasingly steep valley to the icefall (1.15/1.30 hours)

ROUTE

The icefall is comprised of an initial 80° section and an interesting finishing 10m cigar-shaped drip. Three-peg belay on rock to the right.

DESCENT

Abseil own equipped belays.

NOTES

Map route 7

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Guidabook: Cascate. Alpi Centrali, Lombardia e Svizzera by Mario Sertori.
Map: Switzerland 1:25000 f.1258 La Stretta and f.1238 Piz Quattervals; Kompass 1:50.000 sheet n. 96 Bormio Livigno

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