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Ombelico del Mondo

First ascent: M.Galli & G.Bianchetti 1998
By: Mario Sertori
Area: Central Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Height: 2000m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Beautiful icefall in a panoramic setting above the lake. Despite the orientation the ice is almost always terrible, rendering this climb extremely delicate.

GETTING THERE

From Milan drive to Lecco and then Colico along the SS 36, then continue along the SS 38 to Bormio. From here take the SS 301 towards Livigno and the Foscagno Pass 2291 m.The Forcola pass which connects Valle di Livigno with Valle di Poschiavo is open from May to November only.

ACCESS

From Livigno drive to the border at Ponte del Gallo; park after the third tunnel, close to a gravel quarry. Climb above the tunnel and continue west for 400m. The icefall now springs into view high in the center of a narrow valley, in between the pine trees. Climb up the steep gully to the base (30 mins)

ROUTE

Tthe icefall is comprised of an initial easy 30m section which leads to the belay on one of the trees. Now continue along the easy gully and a few short steps to reach the nice finishing drip. This is climbed as a 30m pitch which, due to the complex nature of the ice, is demanding.

DESCENT

Descend on the hydrographical right. Abseil from the pine tree (sling and maillon rapide in-situ). Walk down the gully to reach the plant used for the first belay. Abseil from this to the base.

NOTES

Map route 6

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Guidabook: Cascate. Alpi Centrali, Lombardia e Svizzera by Mario Sertori.
Map: Switzerland 1:25000 f.1258 La Stretta and f.1238 Piz Quattervals; Kompass 1:50.000 sheet n. 96 Bormio Livigno

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