All-in - Sas del Pegorer, Gran Vernel
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Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa, Thomas Gianola
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All-in: Philipp Angelo starting up the AI6- pitch while making the first ascent of All-in up the North Face of Sas del Pegorer, (Gran Vernel), Dolomites (Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa, Thomas Gianola 09/01/2017) © Fabrizio della Rossa
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa, Thomas Gianola, 09/01/2017
By
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa, Thomas Gianola
Orientation
North
Length
430m
Route
The climb ascends the North Face of Sas del Pegorer, is 430m long and 350m high. Probably the line comes into condition rarely since the ice only forms when the snow that plasters the face transforms. Usually though the snow doesn’t melt in winter, unless it rains just like it did in November 2016 immediately after some heavy snowfall. The pitches are generally just off-vertical and offer highly technical climbing with long sections up rock. The route is characterized by its lack of decent gear; the ice is too thin for ice screws, while the rock rarely provides cracks for pegs or trad gear. During the first ascent 3 bolts were placed by hand on 3 different belays. The first ascentionists are completely happy with more bolts being added by those wishing to repeat the line, as they do not believe in a heroic, kamikaze form of alpinism! Bearing in mind th type of ice, the first ascentionsists suggest using the Alpine Ice climbing scale and suggest AI 6-, M7, R for the 8 pitch outing. All rappel belays are equipped.
Itinerary
P1: III, 15m
P2: II, 2 pegs at belay, 60m
P3: M6-, 2 pegs at belay, 60m
P4: M5, bolt at belay + peg, 60m
P5: M7, 2 pegs at belay, 1 peg on the traverse, 60m
P6: M7-, 2 pegs at belay + thread, 50m
P7: AI 6-, bolt at belay + peg, 65m!
P8: AI 4, bolt at belay + peg, 60m
P1: III, 15m
P2: II, 2 pegs at belay, 60m
P3: M6-, 2 pegs at belay, 60m
P4: M5, bolt at belay + peg, 60m
P5: M7, 2 pegs at belay, 1 peg on the traverse, 60m
P6: M7-, 2 pegs at belay + thread, 50m
P7: AI 6-, bolt at belay + peg, 65m!
P8: AI 4, bolt at belay + peg, 60m
See all photosBeauty
First ascent
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa, Thomas Gianola, 09/01/2017
By
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa, Thomas Gianola
Orientation
North
Length
430m
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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Related news
12/01/2017 - Alpinism
All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face...
Note: Qualcuno ha aggiunto uno spit alla terza sosta e uno sul quarto tiro (fix da 8 messi con il trapano) poi probabilmente si sono calati. E' possibile arrivare alla terza sosta seguendo cenge e brevi muretti di misto senza particolari difficoltà. Abbiamo piantato e lasciato 2 chiodi sul 4° tiro. Per una ripetizione portare pecker grossi o ice piton ( o due piccozze in più da lasciare come protezione), risultano le protezioni migliori. Dalla penultima sosta con una traversata ascendente di circa 80 metri a destra si potrebbe connettersi a un altra colata e proseguire l'itinerario fino in vetta.
Secondo noi i gradi sono leggermente più facili ma il grado di esposizione è molto elevato. Complessivamente M6+ AI5 E4 (E5 se non si hanno ice piton o pecker).
Franz Salvaterra