By: Thomas Scalise Meynet
Area: Western Alps, Group: Adamello - Presanella, Height: 2540m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta
Extremely beautiful icefall, climbed without bolts or pegs. The dry tooling section can be protected well with friends and nuts. Once again the Cogne valley has provided amazing new excitement.
Take the A5 motorway and exit at Aosta Ovest, then continue towards the Cogne valley and reach Cogne.
Continue towards Lillaz up to a roundabout with a mine cart in the middle. Turn left and continue to the hamlet of Gimilian. At the end of this hamlet on the right there is a bridge, park close to this and cross the small stream. From here a private road leads into the valley of Grauson (bridge on the right).
After the hamlet of Gimillan head towards the houses at "Pila", up the valley and following river Grauson. Shortly before reaching the houses the icefall springs into view on the left (approach 1 - 1.5 hours, depending on snow conditions). Scramble up the 200m gully, angled 30-35° to reach the ice drips.
P1: Easy 25m pitch leads to the base of the main column. Ice belay at the base of the icefall Oceano Polare.
P2: The first 6-7m column can be protected with ice screws, the M6 mixed section is protected with trad gear (friend # 0.5 and nuts) then reach out onto the drip above (20m) and continue up this to where it ends. Traverse 10m to the right and finish up Oceano Polare. Bolted belay at the top on the left.
One 60m abseil down the route leads to the base of the icefall.
Normal ice climbing rack. Two 60m ropes. 9 small and medium ice screws, friends #0.3 #0.5, set of nuts, pegs
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