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Dlacion de Frea

First ascent: Lukas Runggaldier and Alex Peristi on 20/12/2014 the first two pitches, the rest of 03/01/2015 by Lukas Runggaldier and Willi Comploi
By: Lukas Runggaldier
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Murfreit Frea, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

New ice climbing called Dlacion de Frea, which in local Ladin 'Frea ice drip’. The route ascends an icy chimney that has not not formed during the last 30 - 40 years. The ice varies from being very thin to cauliflower ice, with a mixed finish believed to be somewhere in the region of WI6 / M6. AIt is the ambient, in this deep icy chimney that makes the climbing even more fascinating. All pegs used during the ascent were left in-situ.

ACCESS

Take the motorway A22, exit at Chiusa / Klausen, continue up Val Gardena past Selva and on to Passo Gardena. Park ca. 2 km before the passo on the right (after a long straight). Continue on foot to reach the base of the route in 10 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: WI3, 20m
P2: WI5, 45m
P3: WI4+, 30m
P4: WI6/M6-, 20m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route, two abseils

GEAR

Short ice scews, mid and large Friends, pegs, 2 x 60m ropes

NOTES

Second ascent: Alex Walpoth, Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth 01/2015
Third ascent: Philipp Angelo and Jacopo Larcher 01/2015

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BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

WI 6 / M6 (possibile easier finish)

LENGTH

110m

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Dlacion de Frea

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