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Exo-Ciuc

First ascent: Enrico Bonino, Tiziana Parru, 25/12/2014
By: Enrico Bonino
Area: Alpi Graie, Group: Valgrisenche, Height: 2050m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

The name of the route refers to the far harder and more famous Exocet, the spectacular ice climb up Aguja Standart, in Patagonia. The waterfall is high avalanche risk in the event of heavy snowfall. The icefall is at risk of avalanches after abundant snowfall.

GETTING THERE

Take the A5 motorway and exit at Aosta Ovest. Follow the main road towards Courmayeur. At the junction turn off left and towards Valgrisenche to the hamlet Bonne. If there is little snow you can continue to the small village Usseliere, otherwise park close to the dam.

ACCESS

Follow the road that ascends to Rifugio Bezzi. The icefall is located on the right, 50m but the right of the icefall Giasson, and 100m below the Saxe Savoie huts.

ROUTE

P1: Follow the obvious slender drip up the first pitch and belay in the gully between the first and second pitch: 30m 90°, belay on ice screws
P2: Follow the drip and venture into the narrow and icy chimney. At the end climb the steep central wall and exit left to reach the rocks: 40m 90°, belay on sling and wedged boulder.

DESCENT

Abseil of sling, then Abalakov.

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack

NOTES

The icefall is at risk of avalanches after abundant snowfall.

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WI5/II

FACE

NW

LENGTH

70m

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