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Shampoo Dry

By: Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Area: Western Alps, Group: Valle di Champorcher, Peak: Valle di Champorcher, Height: 6m - 30m, Country: Italy, Region: Valle d'Aosta

New dytooling and total dry crag designed by Enrico Bonino and bolted with the help of Hugues Bonnel (Odyssee Montagne) and Giancarlo Bazzocchi. Thanks also to Ilaria Sonatore, Marco Ghisio and Filippo Laurora.

GETTING THERE

Take the A5 and exit at Pont Saint Martin. Follow the main road towards Aosta. After the Bard fort  follow signs for Champorcher and drive up the valley to reach the village. From here continue right towards Dondena and park where the road is closed due to snow. During the rest of the year continue up the dirt road to the cliff.

ACCESS

Winter: from the car park follow the road for 1km to reach the crag (obvious on the right).
Summer: park next to the crag.

ROUTE

1. Orango stanco: M5+
2. Spigolangolo: M5+
3. Fessurina: M5
4. Teppa impazzita: M4
5. Green sling: M4+
6. Delicados: M5
7. Tree tooling: M5
8. Jumping on the rock: M7
9. Diedro centrale: M6
10. Supertettolina: M7
11. Esperando el hielo: M5

DESCENT

Abseil

GEAR

Set of quickdraws, ice axe, crampons, helmet, 60m single rope.

NOTES

Crag bolted with 10 and 12mm bolts. Belays equipped with chains or tree belays. A toprope can easily be rigged at the righthand sector (Masso). If there is lots of snow it is difficult to rig a toprope at the other sectors, while if there is little snow the abseil anchors are easily located. All you need to do therefore is make a short abseil to the anchors to rig the toprope. In due course a rope will be fixed to reach the tree anchors  easily and safely.

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M4 - M7

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South

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