Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowIce arrowItineraries arrowSaumons et Glacons

Saumons et Glacons

First ascent: Enrico Bonino, Luca Breveglieri, Olivier Colaye
By: Enrico Bonino, Mountain Guide
Area: Western Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Combe Maudite, Country: France

An ephemeral couloir, never too extreme but not to be underestimated due to the difficulty in placing gear on some pitches. Comparable to the Rebuffat Terray route on the Pelerins in dry conditions... with a bit more climbing to do...!

GETTING THERE

Take the A5 to Courmayeur and park at La Palud at the bottom of the Punta Helbronner cablecar.

ACCESS

From the Torino refuge, go via the Flambeaux col, past the North face of the Tour Ronde to reach Combe Maudite.

ROUTE

Ascend the gully which leads to Filo d'Arianna for about 6 pitches (bolted belays on the left). Don't stop at the belay on the rocky outcrop before the narrow gully but continue up to the narrow section and, on the right below the overhang, locate a bolted belay sheltered from the fall line.
P1: traverse to the left to find an obvious rock slab (M4+/M5 depending on conditions) with a line of ice running through it, 50m belay to the left using a peg and a spike;
P2: 75/80 degree ice, difficult to place gear, 55m belay on the right using a peg and large spike;
P3: 75/80 degree couloir followed by a M5/M5+ corner, grade depending on the ice conditions, 55m belay on the right using a large spike;
P4: Ephemeral couloir with 80 degree sections, difficult to place gear, 50m belay with pegs on ledge to the left;
P5: Enclosed ephemeral couloir with short overhanging finish, continue on the slope to the snowy secondary ridge obstructed by blocks.  If it is not visible, dig on the ridge line to find a thread around a large spike.

DESCENT

From the last belay, abseil down the line of the route. Alternatively, if there are other parties on the final pitches, from the last belay abseil down the parallel gully to the right (as you face the mountain...) and locate a pegged belay; from here one abseil will take you back to B3 to pick up the route line.

GEAR

Set of C4 cams up to size 2 (3 is useful if it's dry), some C3s, 3 short ice screws, a couple of medium ice screws.

NOTES

THIS ROUTE IS NOT RECOMMENDED WHEN IT IS BUSY. THE GULLY SPACE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR MORE THAN 2 ROPE GROUPS, WHO MUST COORDINATE THEMSELVES WELL TOGETHER!!!
AT THE START OF THE SEASON IT IS BETTER TO LEAVE THE REFUGE EARLY IN THE MORNING TO CLIMB THE SLOPE IN THE SHADE.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Saumons et Glacons"

No comments found for Saumons et Glacons

Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

M5/M5+, WI5, R, S2+

LENGTH

500m of which 250m new

LINK ZONE

Read main article

LINK

www.odyssee-montagne.it

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH Icefalls

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria