By: Wolfgang Hell, Pavol Rajcan
Area: Dolomites, Group: Val Gardena-Vallunga, Peak: Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige
A really beautiful route to the right of La Piovra that offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts.
From Selva in Val Gardena reach the Val Lunga.
Walk up the valley and reach the base of La Piovra. Evolution starts immediately to the left
L1: WI 4+, 40m. Beautiful, relatively easy climbing up ice wedged in between the rocks.
L2: WI 5+, 20m. Beautiful pitch, small traverses right up vertical ice.
L3: M9+, 15m. Overhanging, friable rock leads to the curtain. We climbed the drip on the right. 3 pegs left in-situ were placed along the first 10m; the rock doesn't accept trad pro.
L4: WI 3, 25m. Traverse right to reach the source that feeds the La Piovra icefall.
Abseil using the rappel stations on La Piovra
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