Sabotørfossen

Elio Bonfanti
1 / 4
Sabotørfossen
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Jan Stenstrøm, Torbjørn Ohlèn, Tommy Schultz 1993
By
Elio Bonfanti
Orientation
North West
Length
150m
Difficulty
II/WI 5

Route



A true classic. A section of pitch 2 is partially hidden from below.
Getting there
From Rijukan take road #37 for circa 5,3km following signs for "Norsk industrialbeidermuseum" and drive down to the large parking lot close to the Vermork bridge. GPS position 32V 471763 6637486. Access
Before crossing the bridge a track leads off right along the canyon floor. In 10 minutes this leads to the obvious drip immediately to the right of the rocky shoulder which gives rise to Nye Vemorkfossen. Take care as the track is often icy. Itinerary
P1: Climb the short 80° section, then continue easily to reach the snow gully, 50m, bolt belay
P2: Enter the chimney-gulley which becomes progressively steeper to reach a niche to the left of the final face, 55m some 90° sections, bolt belay.
P3: Climb the beautiful weathers face which then narrows down into a slender drip right towards the end, 45m, tree belay Descent
Abseil down the icefall. Gear
Two 60m ropes, full ice climbing rack. Some small and mid-sized camming devices may be found useful.




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Beauty
First ascent
Jan Stenstrøm, Torbjørn Ohlèn, Tommy Schultz 1993
By
Elio Bonfanti
Orientation
North West
Length
150m
Difficulty
II/WI 5

Route



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