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Sabotørfossen

First ascent: Jan Stenstrøm, Torbjørn Ohlèn, Tommy Schultz 1993
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: Norway, Group: Rjukan, Country: Norway, Region: Sørlandet

A true classic. A section of pitch 2 is partially hidden from below.

GETTING THERE

From Rijukan take road #37 for circa 5,3km following signs for "Norsk industrialbeidermuseum" and drive down to the large parking lot close to the Vermork bridge. GPS position 32V 471763 6637486.

ACCESS

Before crossing the bridge a track leads off right along the canyon floor. In 10 minutes this leads to the obvious drip immediately to the right of the rocky shoulder which gives rise to Nye Vemorkfossen. Take care as the track is often icy.

ROUTE

P1: Climb the short 80° section, then continue easily to reach the snow gully, 50m, bolt belay
P2: Enter the chimney-gulley which becomes progressively steeper to reach a niche to the left of the final face, 55m some 90° sections, bolt belay.
P3: Climb the beautiful weathers face which then narrows down into a slender drip right towards the end, 45m, tree belay

DESCENT

Abseil down the icefall.

GEAR

Two 60m ropes, full ice climbing rack. Some small and mid-sized camming devices may be found useful.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

II/WI 5

FACE

North West

LENGTH

150m

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