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Senza Piombo

First ascent: Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner 27 & 30/01/2013
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Val Gardena-Vallunga, Peak: Vallunga, Selva di Val Gardena, Country: Italia, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

A beautiful and difficult route first climbed by the Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner,i n a clean style, i.e. without pegs and bolts and using only nuts and friends to protect the pitches and belays.

GETTING THERE

From Selva in Val Gardena reach the Vallunga.

ACCESS

On the left side of the valley, 10 minutes after parking the car, Illuminati springs into view. Senza Piombo is located 15 minutes after Illuminati. walk up the grassy hill. 1 hour 15 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: M6, 20m
P2: WI 5, 40m
P3: M9, 20m
P4:
M10, 20m
P5: WI 4, 40m

GEAR

Set C3, Set Cams C4 0.3-4, 2nd set C4 0.5-2, short screws, kevlar slings, ice rack

NOTES

Clarification by Albert Leichtfried on 15/02/2013
As I explained in my report, at the start our original intention wasn't to climb the route clean right from the outset. So on the first day two bolts were placed , 1 at the 3rd belay and 1 above this belay. When however it became clear that the route could in fact go clean, the bolts were removed and the route was climbed without them three days later.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

M10 WI 5

LENGTH

140m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.albertleichtfried.at

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