Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowIce arrowItineraries arrowSfasciacarrozze


First ascent: Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali, 27/12/2012
By: Massimo Faletti, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Brenta, Peak: Castello di Vallesinella, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

Difficult mixed climb established ground-up over three days, completed on 27/12/2012. According to Faletti the line is "a great journey, highly selective. Far harder than all my other routes."


P1: 35m/40m, M7. Vertical slab, in-situ bong, nut and thread close to the ice. Comfortable belay on ledge, 2 bolts.
P2: 35m, M7. Alternate climbing with ice axes and without; climb ice, the crack to the right to reach an in-situ nut. Boulder crux with dyno, then continue up the crack, leftwards, past a peg to the bolt belay.
P3: 35m/40m, M6. Climb straight up, sale dritti, poi a sinistra e di nuova a destra, filtro prima della sosta. Sosta a spit
P4: 35m/40m, M6. Hard moves, then thin ice, nut and peg in-situ. Close to the belay use the chain of the sports route and a bolt. There are more threads, but climb the crack to the upper ledge. Peg belay above this.
P5: Traverse left, thread.
P6: 30m, M7. Ascend the chimney, exit up vertical terrain to the right. Peg on the left of the drip, then continue directly up. Abseil belay at the cornice.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Sfasciacarrozze"

No comments found for Sfasciacarrozze

Details / Icefall

stella stella stella stella stella


WI 6+, M7





VOTES / itinerary
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary


Add your email and password:



SEARCH Icefalls




More itineraries
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
Recent Comments
  • Via Africa
    Via bellissima su roccia ottima. molto psicologica poichè d ...
    2015-07-20 / luca genio
  • Via Cassin
    Stupenda salita, Cassin e Ratti sono stati due folli a salir ...
    2015-07-15 / seba dezu
  • Primo Spigolo
    05/07/2015 La via ha tutte le soste attrezzate a spit ma in ...
    2015-07-07 / francesco gherlenda
  • Colonne d'Ercole
    Grandissima via, la nostra più bella finora nelle Dolomiti. ...
    2015-06-25 / Alex Walpoth