Difficult mixed climb established ground-up over three days, completed on 27/12/2012. According to Faletti the line is "a great journey, highly selective. Far harder than all my other routes."
P1: 35m/40m, M7. Vertical slab, in-situ bong, nut and thread close to the ice. Comfortable belay on ledge, 2 bolts.
P2: 35m, M7. Alternate climbing with ice axes and without; climb ice, the crack to the right to reach an in-situ nut. Boulder crux with dyno, then continue up the crack, leftwards, past a peg to the bolt belay.
P3: 35m/40m, M6. Climb straight up, sale dritti, poi a sinistra e di nuova a destra, filtro prima della sosta. Sosta a spit
P4: 35m/40m, M6. Hard moves, then thin ice, nut and peg in-situ. Close to the belay use the chain of the sports route and a bolt. There are more threads, but climb the crack to the upper ledge. Peg belay above this.
P5: Traverse left, thread.
P6: 30m, M7. Ascend the chimney, exit up vertical terrain to the right. Peg on the left of the drip, then continue directly up. Abseil belay at the cornice.
COMMENTS for the route "Sfasciacarrozze"
No comments found for Sfasciacarrozze