Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowIce arrowItineraries arrowFollow the Gully

Follow the Gully

First ascent: Marcello Sanguineti, Sergio De Leo, Christian Turk 23/11/2012
By: Marcello Sanguineti
Area: Ecrins, Group: Ecrins, Peak: Barre des Ecrins, Height: 3597m, Country: France, Region: Dauphiné

Short but intense gully. In dry conditions the route is difficult to protect. At times the rock quality is poor. Grandiose setting, total isolation.

ACCESS

From La Berarde to Rif. Temple-Ecrin, from here continue to Col des Avalanches. From the col descend for circa 150m to reach the steep gully (located on the left as you descend from the col) which leads to the face.

Alternatively: from Pré de M.me Carle ascend the Glacier Noir and climb the gully which leads past a mixed section and an icy vertical section towards Col des Avalanches, to circa 150m below the col. Ascend the steep gully on the right which brings you to the face.

At the end of the steep gully, climb the gully on the left for circa 100m up snow and ice (60-70°). Belays at the base of the dry tooling pitches.

ROUTE

P1: Climb on the left past various steep sections and narrow colouirs with little ice. After a delicate steeper section belay with friends/nuts and pegs (50m, M5+).

P2: climb directly above the belay up the large crack (place a U-shaped peg on the left, friends in the crack) which leads past via a pumpy section into a "squeeze chimney" with snow and ice deep inside. Climb up this, not without difficulty. Another delicate vertical section leads to the start of the overhang and poor rock. Protect yourself (peg) then climb right, first pumpy, then delicate, until the angle eases off. There are few hooks and footholds here. Belay with friends/nuts and pegs (45m, M6).

P3: continue upwards, at first directly above the belay, then zigzaging left or right to avoid unstable rock to reach the ice drip which takes ice screws (short or mid sizes). Climb this fun ice groove to where this ends on steep rock. Breach this directly and climb delicately diagonally left to reach the sheet of snow. Ascend this to reach the base of the rock face once again and belay here, friends/nuts (55m, M5+).

P4: Ascend the rocky section and continue up the obvious line to reach the crest at 3597m (35m, M4).

DESCENT

One abseil leads to above Col des Avalanches, descend to this and continue on down to La Berarde.

GEAR

Normal rack for modern mixed climbs. The following gear was used during the first ascent: some Friends C3, a set of Friends C4 to #2, some medium and small nuts, two pegs, a U-shaped peg, 2 medium ice screws, 1 short ice screw. Other gear which may be found useful: a Friend C4 #3 (at the start of P2) and other pegs.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Follow the Gully"

No comments found for Follow the Gully

Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

M6

FACE

South

LENGTH

300m

LINK ZONE

Read main article

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH Icefalls

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
Recent Comments
  • La beffa
    Portare Camalot dal 0.3 fino al #1, anche qualche stopper. L ...
    2014-07-18 / Luciano Calvelo
  • Spigolo Ovest - Wiessner - Kees
    Percorsa nel 1978, ma la ricordo perfettamente. Via all'alte ...
    2014-07-13 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spigolo Nord Ovest
    Ripetuta qualche anno fa. Salita magnifica in ambiente stupe ...
    2014-07-12 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Spitagoras
    Bella via su roccia da buona ad ottima. Chiodatura da via al ...
    2014-07-07 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello