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Valeria

First ascent: Gianni Canale e Aldo Mazzotti, 6-7/01/2013
By: Gianni Canale
Area: Dolomites, Group: Brenta, Peak: Crozzon di Brenta, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

Beautiful 270m ice climb up the West Face of Crozzon di Brenta, first climbed by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti in January2013, and dedicated to Valeria Brunelli who died in the night between 8 and 9 October 2012, buried by rockfall while bivying at the base of the of the enchanting Vedretta of Camosci.

GETTING THERE

From Sant'Antonio di Mavignola drive up into Val Brenta, park close to the forestry comission's tree nursery and continue up the summer path to Malga Brenta Alta. From here head right tot he obvious gully (the one on the left) which leads to a plateau below the imposing Crozzon di Brenta arete. The elegant an obvious line of Valeria is clearly visible from here. 3:30 - 4 hours with skis from the car.

ROUTE

P1: V, 60m
P2: V+, 40m
P3: VI- (M4+), 55m
P4: V, 45m,
P5: VI-, VI + o M6, 50m
P6: V+, 20m

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

GEAR

2 x 60m ropes, 1 set of camming devices 0.5- 3 BD, 6 icescrews, pegs and hammer

NOTES

Belays equipeed with 2 bolts. All gear used left in-situ. On pitch 5 the second peg is poor but I failed to remove it, a better one is placed circa 40cm to the left.

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COMMENTS for the route "Valeria"

22-02-2013, Claudio Migliorini
Semplicemente eccezionale!! Salita il 09 febbraio con Francesco Rubbiani, concatenatandola a "Donne e Ramponi..." Complimenti e grazie agli apritori!
02-02-2013, Francesco Salvaterra
Salita ven 1 febbraio con Paolo Baroldi, una vera perla unica nel suo genere per la varietà dei passaggi e la location di primordine. Complimenti a Gianni e Aldo per aver "colto l'attimo"!
15-01-2013, Planetmountain
Prima ripetizione di Giorgio Bertagnolli e Cristian Defant il 12/01/2013 http://www.planetmountain.com/News/shownews1.lasso?l=1&keyid=40511 First repeat by Giorgio Bertagnolli e Cristian Defant il 12/01/2013 on http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40512
Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

VI ice, M6, VI+ rock

FACE

West

LENGTH

270m

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