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Bambi

First ascent: Andrea Guerzoni, Fabio Deambrogio 11/02/2012
By: Andrea Guerzoni
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Val d'Adige, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Bambi is situated in a grandiose environment, extremely wild and isolated. The extenuating approach, the 300m climb and long descent render this more an alpine outing than a sport climb. There is plenty of potential for further routes thanks above all to the pillars which hide some real gems.

GETTING THERE

Take the A22 motorway and exit at Ala Avio. Drive along the state road past Brentino, after a few km turn off right, drive under a bridge and reach the village Borghetto. At the station turn off left, take the bridge which crosses right, then bear left onto the main road. Reach a cross on a little wall hidden behind a tree, shortly after this turn off right onto a steep road which leads through the vineyards. We parked after 100m, but with a 4x4 you can continue up to where it becomes a dirt track close to some large boulders and save 30 minutes on the approach.

ROUTE

P1: 4+, 50m, tree belay on the right with sling and carabiner
P2: 2, 60m, tree belay
P3: 90/100m, leads to the upper section, 2 peg belay, equipped with sling and carabiner for abseil
P4: 3+, 50m, 2 bolt belay equipped with carabiner for abseil
P5: 5+/M9 (to be confirmed), 40m, 2 bolt belay, equipped with sling and carabiner for abseil

DESCENT

Abseil off the belays. At the end of the second abseil, traverse left (looking downwards) and descend the slope and stepped icy terrain through the trees (watch out, almost all trees are dead) to reach the tree belay of pitch 1.

NOTES

The final pitch was bolted with the use of aid and still awaits a free ascent.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

5+/6 M9

LENGTH

300m

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