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Goulotte del Pioda

First ascent: Giacomo Casiraghi, Mario Vannuccini 19/05/2011
By: Mario Vannuccini, Guida Alpina
Area: Bernina Alps, Group: Masino - Bregaglia, Peak: Monte Pioda, Height: 3431m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Goulotte del Pioda is a fun climb, with moderate difficulties, clearly visible from Val di Mello. In spring it is usually in good condition and the hardest section is the start, which appeared circa 20 years ago when the Pioda glacier retreated leaving fantastically compact sheet of granite.

GETTING THERE

Reach Val di Mello in Northern Italy.

ACCESS

Two options:
1) from Preda Rossa 1950m ascend to Passo Cecilia 3210m and descend into  Val Cameraccio, coasting Monte Pioda to reach the start, located at 3000m as the first ascentionists did (4-5 hours);
2) ascend Val di Mello and Val Cameraccio, pass the Kima bivvy at 2680m and reach the start (5-6 hours).

ROUTE

75° wall, thin ice, pro on the left, belay on , 50m
Snow 50°, 50m
Gully 65°, 100m
Snow 50°, 200m
Mixed terrain 60°, 100m
Easy crest, 80m

GEAR

Via the East Ridge to Sella di Pioda 3387m then continue along the Preda Rossa glacier.

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Details / Icefall
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

III/WI2R (75°)

LENGTH

580m long, 430m vertical meters

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Goulotte del Pioda

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LINK

www.guidealpine.net

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