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Cugi's Corner

First ascent: Barry Bona, Simone Favero 05/03/2011
By: Barry Bona
Area: Dolomites, Group: Col Nudo - Cavallo, Peak: Cimon di Palantina, Height: 2190m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Mixed line which follows a logical rocky corner, just to the left of the pillar and “Questo gioco di Fantasmi”. The rock is friable in sections and at times both dirty and covered in grass, meaning that favourable ice conditions are imperative for a successful ascent.

GETTING THERE

From the South leave the motorway A27 at Fadalto – Alpago and continue to Tambre d’Alpago along the state road 28. Follow signs for S. Anna and Col Indes and park at Malga Pian Grant (1213m), the starting point for all walks in the Cavallo mountain chain.

ACCESS

Take path No. 923 which leads to Rifugio Semenza, walk up Val de Piera and at Sasson della Madonna (1640m) locate the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina, the characteristic round pillar to the right of Via Vazzoler (check out guida Berti – Dolomiti Orientali II). Scramble to the base of the wall, heading towarrds the base of the corner on the lefthand side of the NW Pillar. Walk-in: 1.5 - 2 hours, depending on the snow conditions.

ROUTE

Route details based on the conditions encountered during the first ascent:
P1: Follow snowy ledges and short steep sections to reach the base of the first vertical wall proper. Belay at small larch tree  ( 50°/70° 30 m.)
P2: Ascent the face covered in a thin layer of ice to reach the small corner. Ice belay. (80°  45m.)
P3: Climb the iced corner with some mixed sections and belay belowe the deep black crack. 1 in-situ peg (45m. 70° M )
P4: Climb the crack with one mixed section and reach the central section of the corner. Continue up the ice couloir ghiacciato to the wedged block. 1in-situ peg at belay. (60m. 75° M)
L5- passando per il foro sotto il masso incastrato, si prosegue per placche di roccia sporca d’erba e ghiaccio sottile, puntando la base di una colata di ghiaccio sospesa sopra ad uno strapiombo. Sosta a friend a destra della colata su roccia precaria. (50m. 70°)
L6- Superare lo strapiombo con un passaggio di misto atletico su roccia friabile e continuare su ghiaccio e neve di dubbia consistenza, con poche possibilità di protezione ( ice-hook abbandonato su erba a metà tiro), fino al termine del muro verticale. 1 ch. di sosta sulla sinistra. (AI 6 R M  50m.)
P7: Climb straight up snow slope to reach the ridge. Thread belay. (65°  50m.)

DESCENT

Descend down the West shoulder, the classic ski mountaineering ascent, and at Casere Palantina (1522m) follow path n° 923 to Pian delle Lastre and then Malga Pian Grant.

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