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Remission

First ascent: Rainsford Rouner, Peter Cole, Timothy Rouner 1976. First solo Steve House
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: United States of America, Group: Cathedral ledge, Country: New Hampshire, Region: North Conway

Very difficult mixed route. In some seasons a direct first pitch comes into condition, but this is extremely rare.

GETTING THERE

To reach Conway start from either Portland or Boston, two or three hours by car. Alternatively, Montreal lies 4 hours away by car.

ACCESS

From the center of Conway drive west down the River Road for circa 1.5km to reach the West Side Road which leads to the base of Cathedral ledge. The drip is reached in just a couple of minutes on foot from the car park and is located immediately to the right of Repentence.

ROUTE

P1: 30 rock grade 5.8/M7+.
P2: 35m hanging curtain, some 90° sections.
P3: 30m 90/95° final drip to reach ice gully, usually very difficult and precarious.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack. Camalot up to #2

NOTES

Period: January, February
Hotel: MOTEL CLARENDON
3537 White Mt Hwy - North Conway, NH 03860
Telephone: 603-356-3551 - 800-433-3551
info@clarendonmotel.com
Mailing Address: P O Box 241 Intervale, NH 03845
With small kitchen.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

An Ice climber’s Guide to Northern New England, third edition, 2002, by S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox

NEice is a local ice climbing site for New England, New Hampshire and Vermont. This contains interesting information about first ascents and the current conditions. http://neice.com

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DIFFICULTY

IV/5+/5.8

FACE

East

LENGTH

100m

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