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Il regalo della Befana

First ascent: Probable first ascent Dario De Rossi & Renato Bortolato (1st group); G. Visentin, M. Casarin, M. Casale (2nd group) 06/01/2011
By: Dario De Rossi
Area: Dolomites, Group: Val Grande, Peak: Santo Stefano di Cadore, Height: 1050m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Interesting and fun drip at the start of Val Grande in a quiet setting. Although the route was climbed in two pitches, we suggest the second pitch is split into two.

GETTING THERE

Reach Santo Stefano di Cadore. Just beyond Santo Stefano park the car in the layby on the left (opposite a small chapel).

ACCESS

From the car park walk into Val Grande via path No. 332. After circa 20 minutes the drip springs into view on the left on the forerunner of the West Face of Monte Col. Walk up through the forest, then follow the riverbed to the base of the route.

ROUTE

P1: Ascend the drip and climb past a narrower section at 20m height. Ice belay  (80°, one short 90° section, 45m);
P2: Continue to the slender drip and another obvious narrowing, delicate (possibly one short section on rock) and exit onto wider ice sheet. Ice belay (80°, 90°, 35m);
P3: Climb up a series of small steps and the easy snow ramp which leads to the final tree belay (70°/80°, 30m)

DESCENT

Three abseils off a tree on the hydrographic left.

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack.

NOTES

After careful research in books and with friends, it seems as if this icefall has never been climbed before. It's clear that should it have already received its first ascent and a name, then all this information will be immediately modified.

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II/4

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West

LENGTH

110m

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