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Ciao TFR

First ascent: Probable f.a. Marco & Mauro Appino, Renzo Vottero 21/12/2010
By: Marco Appino
Area: Western Alps, Group: Vallone di Piantonetto, Height: 1400m, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

Short climb up a nice drip on the second pitch, in the unique Piantonetto surroundings. The climb necessitates long cold spells to come into condition. Those wishing to continue can combine it with the nearby route Incontro Generazionale.
Details about a prior ascent are unknown and it is unclear whether Appino and Vottero carried out the first ascent as most information about climbs in this valley is passed on by word of mouth.


From Turin take the main road towards Caselle and at exit No.3 turn off onto the SS460 towards Ceresole Reale. Continue past Locana to Rosone and bear off right where for Vallone di Piantonetto. Continue up this steep and nattow road to San Giacomo, park the car 300m before the fork for Scoglio di Mroz (icefall visible). Circa 70 km from Turin.


The icefall is clearly visible from the road, allow 20 minutes for the approach.


P1) Climb the iced slab and ascend the short vertical curtain, move left and after the cauliflower ice reach the start of the drip. P1, 35m, 2 bolts.
P2) Climb the short but pumpy drip to reach the ramp. Ascend this to reach a second smaller drip. Belay at the top of this at the tree. P2, 30m, sling.


One belay from P2 all the way to the ground (60m ropes)


Full ice climbing rack, short ice screws useful.


The icefall receives the sun fairly early, make sure you get an early start to avoid the shower. Located in Vallone di Piantonetto in the Gran Paradiso National Park, when talking about the probable first ascent the conditional is obligatory.

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