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Ice climbing in the Valle delle Meraviglie Ice climbing in Switzerland





1. Delfina
100m (IV, 3+) TD-
N. Berzi, M. Maggioni, P. Gidaro and C. Mozzaglia
Walk-in: 2.30h

P1. Climb first step from right to left to belay in rocky niche (35m, some 80° sections)
P2. Traverse left and climb short wall to reach base of ramp, ice belay (35m, 6m of 90°)
P3. Climb ramp to end of icefall.

Descent: traverse right (westwards) and descend via ledges, at times steep, to the base of the valley. Continue flat to the base of the icefall (with heavy snowcover this area is at risk of avalanches)

There are 8 other icefalls to be climbed here, 4 of which are parallel and over 200m high.




1. Civa’s Regal
200m (III, 4-) TD-
N. Berzi, M. Civardi and D. Mazzola in 1998
Walk-in: 0.15h

P1. Climb nice wall up center and ice belay on the left (35m, 12m of 85°)
P2. Climb through the steps (45m, 60°)
P3. As pitch 2
L4. Climb the short wall to tree belay to the left of the icefall (45m, 80°)
L5. Continue up the gully (50m, 50°)
L6. Continue up the gully to belay beneath final wall
L7. Climb the compact wall up its center (45m, 5m of 90°)
L8. Reach the bushes near the summit at the top of the icefall

Descent: traverse leftwards (facing the valley), past a large pine tree. Continue diagonally to a second pine tree to the left, thereby avoiding some rocky steps. From here descend directly through the thick forest.


2. Kuzo
60m (II, 5+) ED
P. Gidaro, N. Berzi and A. Sarchi
Walk-in: 0.25h

P1. Climb through narrow section to the base of the impressive round icicle (30m, short 70° section)
P2. Climb the splendid athletic icicle to tree belay where ice runs out (30m, 20m of 90°)
Note: climb the icicle more easily by keeping to the left and bridging (II,4+)

There are two other short but extreme icefalls to be climbed in this area.





This sector can be seen far in the distance from Isteria by looking towards Rheinquelhorn. The icefalls receive the sun and collapse easily. There are about a dozen icefalls here.

N.B.
There are 4 more icefalls situated between sectors 5 and 7, two of which ascend steep gullies.


by Nicolo' Berzi - Guide Alpine Milano
   
 1 2 3 4 5 
 
steep ice in Switzerland
Climbing the fantastic Kuzo icicle
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