Various drips form on the northern face of Guggernull, as do some at the start of the valley. A glance at the map shows that this valley has yet to be fully discovered...
1. Fuego lento
70m, (III, 4+) TD+
N. Berzi and L. Ceron in 1998
P1. Climb the short wall on the left to belay on rock, to the left of free-standing column (30m, 80°, 1 in-situ peg in belay).
P2. Continue straight up the column above. (45m, 90°, ice belay).
P3. Climb to snowy summit plateau and then descend by traversing right between the trees to reach the belay of Candelone di Fuego Lento.
Descent: 50m abseil down Candelone di Fuego Lento
2. Candelone di Fuego Lento
50m, (III, 5) ED
N Berzi and L. Ceron in 1998
P1. Move leftwards from the snowy gully to climb a left-hand airy, spectacular and athletic line. (50m, 90°).
Descent: 50m abseil from the end of the route.
3. Surye Namaskar
200m (III,4) TD
P. Gidaro, M. Maggioni and N. Berzi
P1. Climb through the first step and belay on ice on right (50m, 5m of 80°).
P2. Continue left over short walls to take the small gully on the right. Equipped belay on rock (40m, 70°).
P3. Climb the steep section directly, and obliquely beneath othe cauliflower's to belay on ice (40m, some 90° sections).
P4. Traverse right, then climb straight to belay on rock beneath the final steep section (35m, 80°).
P5. Climb the step in its center and belay o ice beneath the roof on the left (45m, 85°).
P6. Traverse right and climb to the top of the drip (25m, 80°). Belay on right beneath the rocky ledge.
Descent: four 50m abseils. The abseils are situated at belay 6,belay 4, belay 2 and the final one over the smooth slabs to the left of the drip.
About 15 icefalls that receive the sun, one of which is 300m long.
|Climbing the first few meters of Candelone di Fuego Lento. Below: ice climbing at its best - the final steep section of Surye Namaskar