ICE HOME
ICE FALLS

Europe

ALPINE CLASSICS

Alps

COMPETITIONS

Results and calendar

'98 - '00
 
Expeditions
People
Post
Weblink
Search
Ice
Introduction
Ascent details
Expedition news 1  2  3
Interview              
  
text and photos by Simone Moro
27/07/2000
Simone Moro

The technical details of my latest Everest adventure
:

The objective was to climb the Everest-Lhotse Traverse, or rather, to climb the highest and fourth highest mountains on earth (8850m and 8516m respectively). The deal was: no oxygen or sherpas, and to climb lightweight.

There were two of us: I was accompanied by my partner, friend and fellow mountaineer Denis Urubko from Kazakistan, with whom I climbed in Pamir and Thien Shan last year.
The novelty of our project was that we wanted to climb two 8000m giants in quick succession. They are linked together by a col, the South Col, situated at 8000m and this should have been our resting point between one summit and the next. We wanted to be there, without oxygen and completely self-sufficient.

The chronological series of events was characterised by a long series of misfortunes and misadventures. Bad weather, avalanches, misfortune and even robbery! We reached the summit of Everest, a much suffered and teeth gritting achievement. The traverse, on the other hand, is still there and waits to be climbed. We didn't do it because of all our misadventures and the almost impossible snow conditions.

But I would like to contemplate that robbery. Having something stolen from Everest Base Camp should be the last thing one needs to worry about, really…
While Denis Urubko and I were at 7300m searching in vain for our avalanched tent and almost US$ 5000 worth of gear, someone had the bright idea of "visiting" my tent at Base Camp and taking my sleeping bag, a rucksack, a digital camera, a battery for my computer and then kicking my satellite telephone!

I remember that, after having fought against the storm and bad luck, we returned to Base Camp exhausted only to make the by no means fantastic discovery that I didn't even have a sleeping bag to sleep in. I didn't ask who, how, or why, I simply borrowed what I no longer had. I didn't even get angry, because I find this difficult and I didn't want to ruin the calm which, at least in the Himalayas, should reign supreme.

This incorrectness is inevitably generated by the increasing number of people who have only ever seen the mountains on postcards! People who, therefore, have no interior values and personal feelings of being at one with nature. The same values and feelings which should be present in human relationships.
And it is because of this that I remain unsurprised or scandalised. The ease with which one can travel nowadays has inevitably affected also Nepal or Tibet. What happenend to me at Everest Base Camp is the fruit of our exported education.

Everest and Lhotse
Simone Moro with Everest and Lhotse in the background
photo S. Moro




The novelty of our project was that we wanted to climb two 8000m giants in quick succession. They are linked together by a col, the South Col, situated at 8000m...




Denis Urubko on Everest











Denis Urubko on Everest.
photo S. Moro archive



We reached the summit of Everest, a much suffered and teeth gritting achievement. The traverse, on the other hand, is still there and waits to be climbed. We didn't do it because of all our misadventures and the almost impossible snow conditions.




S. Moro and D. Urubko
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
photo S. Moro archive
| Home | News | Special | Lab | Mountaininfo | Expo | Rock | Expeditions | Ice | Snow | Trekking | Info | Newsletter

|Italian version|

Sends comments and suggestions to Planetmountain.composta

Copyright© Mountain Network s.r.l.