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Positioned at the base of the Marmolada between the villages of Sottoguda and Malga Ciapela, the Serrai di Sottoguda is one of the most popular areas for ice climbing in the Dolomites. The short approach time and the sheer number of routes available make this area an extremely interesting "sports climbing" venue.
Getting there
The Sottoguda gorge is easily accessible. From Belluno drive up the Cordevole valley past Agordo, Alleghe and Caprile and continue as for Passo Fedaia. Before reaching Malga Ciapela turn off the main road and enter into Sottoguda. Drive through this village to where the road ends at the beginning of the gorge. Continue on foot to arrive swiftly at the base of the first waterfalls.
Grades
The waterfalls within Sottoguda will satisfy most ice climbers. Some pitches are protected by bolts and many have bolt belays. The grades of the routes vary between grades II and V, although the majority are relatively difficult. The waterfalls included in this article are all "true classics", the hardest of which, La Spada (the sword), is situated beneath the large bridge which connects Sottoguda to Malga Ciapela |
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The best ice routes
| n. |
name |
grade |
lenght |
star rating |
| 1 |
Clessidra |
I,3+ |
25 m |
*** |
| 2 |
Del Sole |
II,3 |
90 m |
*** |
| 3 |
Spada nella roccia |
I,5 |
40 m |
**** |
| 4 |
Diagonale - Palestrina |
II,3 |
70 m |
*** |
| 5 |
La Cattedrale |
II,4+ |
100 m |
**** |
| 6 |
Excalibur |
II,4+ |
100 m |
**** |
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