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Sector 'Diga'

This is the first sector one gets to, immediately after the dam. Many of the icefalls are awesome, and some are still unclimbed.

1 - Marcello Scarpellini, Dario Segato, February '99

Large, free standing drip, clearly visible from the road.
Three pitches, the first entails some mixed climbing.

Descent: not easy. From the top traverse rightwards along a ledge to a large ice thread. Abseil from here to the base of the cliff (60m +)

Interview with Dario Segato



80m 6/A2 on rock

III/6+ ice;

Gear: Friends and icescrews.
2 - Guido Casarotto, Mario Vielmo, February ’99

Complex climb that starts to the right of the preceding route and then follows the line through the gully above it.

Start up the easy flow even though this may not have much ice and arrive at a ledge (80m). Traverse this leftwards to its end and then abseil 10m (pegs and bolt) to another ledge. This is followed leftwards again to a gully. In the back of this, on the left, is a flow that rises for four pitches (120m) to the top. The second, crux pitch, is graded 6+.

The flow: follow the gully to belay at the start of the chimney (30-40m). Climb this and a 5m rock section to a snowy stance at the base of the drip. Climb this and traverse left at the top, belaying at the tree. Move back right and continue up the flow for another 40m pitch to reach another tree belay.

Descent: two abseils from the trees used for the belays. A third abseil leads to the lower ledge used to get to the flow. Walk along this, past where the 10m abseil finishes, to a 2 bolt belay. Abseil to the base.

(information thanks to Guido Casarotto)

Uniting the two climbs results in one of the longest and hardest ice climbs in the Dolomites: 7 pitches, one of which requires some hard mixed climbing, and two graded 6+. Looking for a challenge this winter?



3 - Il Fantolino

Marco Moretti, Giovanni Tiziani, Francesco Tremolada, January '97

Single pitch to the left of The Time Machine
Tree belay high to the right.

Descent: Abseil from the tree.
50 m
4+/II
4 - The Time Machine

Maurizio Gallo, Paolo Mantovani, January '97

Spectacular and demanding wall on the first pitch


Three pitches with bolt belays. 5+/III
Sector 'Carnielli'

Depending on how they form, either two or three flows situated high on the Spiz walls, clearly visible from the forest track below. Shortly after the summer car park follow the summer path left to Bivacco Carnielli (sign and paint marks on a boulder).

The walk-in can be tiring if there is a lot of snow; allow roughly 1 hour.



click photo for enlarged version
5 - Main flow which divides into two icicles higher up.

Take the left-hand exit.

The belays have been equipped.

Descent: abseil belays have been set up on the wall to the right of the fall. However, the first abseil needs to be set up on ice.

150m 5/II
Sector 'Muro del Pianto'

Every year different formations appear on this rocky wall. The icefalls are short (two or three pitches only), have both steep ice and mixed sections, are difficult to protect and are physically very demanding.

6 - Pastin

Marco Moretti, Francesco Tremolada, '97

The leftmost line up the wall. The first belay on the right has some pegs, the others need to be set up.



80/90m 6/III
7 - Train de vie

Davide Crescenzio, Loris Marin, Francesco Tremolada, '99

This beautiful two pitch route takes the line immediately to the left of Ciki; the second pitch is almost always in condition. Belay on the ledge to the right.

Descent: via bolts and 50m abseil to the base.



80/90m 5/III


click photo for enlarged version
8 - Ciki

Maurizio Gallo, Paolo Mantovani, December '96

This line takes the slender icicle in the middle of the wall. Bolt belay at the base. Stance at the top of the icicle. Usually divided into three pitches to the top.



80/90m 6/III
9 - Champignon Gratinèe

Maurizio Gallo, Paolo Mantovani, February '96

This was the first icefall to be climbed in the valley. It takes the line immediately to the right of Ciki, making its way through the overhangs over cauliflower ice. Bolt belay.



80/90m 6/III
10 - Goulottina

Marcello Scarpellini, Dario Segato, December '98

Slender icefall on the extreme right-hand side of the wall, inside a chimney/corner. Some delicate sections with thin ice and some sections on rock.

80/90m 5+/III
Sector 'Giaron de la Fopa'

Continue beyond the Muro del Pianto towards the beginning of the Giaron de la Fopa and reach the obvious icefall on the left. Snowshoes or skis recommended for the walk-in.




click photo for enlarged version
11 - One of the most interesting large icefalls in the valley, often in condition 120m III/6
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