VAL GARDENA

Val Gardena
This famous ski resort has some great ice climbs which enthuse not just because of their technical difficulties but also because of their beauty: all are set in fantastic thick woods beneath overhanging towering faces. The areas in which these icefalls are situated are relatively safe and not prone to avalanches.

Getting there
The Val Gardena can be reached either from the north or the south via the A22 motorway by exiting at Chiusa. Alternatively, follow the highway north from Bolzano and turn off at Ponte Gardena.

Nicola Tondini looking for a way out. Photo by Alberico Mangano

Name	Length	Grade	Orientation	Altitude	Beauty	Formation	Descent
Candela di Bulla	40m	II, 5+	NW	1300m			abseil from tree
Incredible free standing icicle. Approach: from Ortisei follow the road for the Alpe di Siusi for 1.5km and then park next to the bridge. Follow the road on foot along the stream; the icefall can be seen on the left from the first bridge. It is reached by walking steeply up leftwards from here. Allow 30 mins for the walk-in.

Bullaccia	140m (+20)	II+, 3+ (5+)	N	1300m			abseil from tree
An interesting outing up this classic grade. Interesting and fun climb up steep steps and snowy slopes. Spice up your life by exiting up the short but intense finishing icicle! Approach: from Ortisei follow the road for the Alpe di Siusi for 300 m and park near the B&B, in full view of the icefall. Follow the path on foot along the stream. Allow 30 mins for the walk-in.

Pilat	55m	II+, 5+	N	1350m			Abseil
Il figlio	40m	I, 3+	NW	1300m			On foot
A classic hard icefall that stays in condition for a long time. Finish off the day by climbing the nearby and somewhat easier Il Figlio. Approach: 700 m after the Ortisei tunnel turn right off the main road (bridge), then immediately left. Park the car after about 800 m near a B&B. Walk up the steep path right, following the stream that rushes down from the Alpe di Siusi. By the bridge keep to the left and turn right at the next fork up the narrow path that cuts across to the stream and the two icefalls. Allow 50 mins for the walk-in.

Lo scultore	40m	I, 3	N	1400m			On foot
Approach: this can be seen on the right when driving up from S. Cristina towards the Sella and Gardena mountain passes. Allow 5 mins for the walk-in.