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VAL GARDENA

Val Gardena
This famous ski resort has some great ice climbs which enthuse not just because of their technical difficulties but also because of their beauty: all are set in fantastic thick woods beneath overhanging towering faces. The areas in which these icefalls are situated are relatively safe and not prone to avalanches.

Getting there
The Val Gardena can be reached either from the north or the south via the A22 motorway by exiting at Chiusa. Alternatively, follow the highway north from Bolzano and turn off at Ponte Gardena.

Nicola Tondini looking for a way out. Photo by Alberico Mangano

- Introduction
- Val Gardena
- Southern Sella
- Val di Fassa
sinistra
Name Length Grade Orientation Altitude Beauty Formation Descent
Candela di Bulla 40m II, 5+ NW 1300m abseil from tree

Incredible free standing icicle.

Approach: from Ortisei follow the road for the Alpe di Siusi for 1.5km and then park next to the bridge. Follow the road on foot along the stream; the icefall can be seen on the left from the first bridge. It is reached by walking steeply up leftwards from here. Allow 30 mins for the walk-in.

Bullaccia 140m (+20) II+, 3+ (5+) N 1300m abseil from tree

An interesting outing up this classic grade. Interesting and fun climb up steep steps and snowy slopes. Spice up your life by exiting up the short but intense finishing icicle!

Approach: from Ortisei follow the road for the Alpe di Siusi for 300 m and park near the B&B, in full view of the icefall. Follow the path on foot along the stream. Allow 30 mins for the walk-in.

Pilat 55m II+, 5+ N 1350m
Abseil
Il figlio 40m I, 3+ NW 1300m
On foot

A classic hard icefall that stays in condition for a long time. Finish off the day by climbing the nearby and somewhat easier Il Figlio.

Approach: 700 m after the Ortisei tunnel turn right off the main road (bridge), then immediately left. Park the car after about 800 m near a B&B. Walk up the steep path right, following the stream that rushes down from the Alpe di Siusi. By the bridge keep to the left and turn right at the next fork up the narrow path that cuts across to the stream and the two icefalls. Allow 50 mins for the walk-in.

Lo scultore 40m I, 3 N 1400m
On foot

Approach
: this can be seen on the right when driving up from S. Cristina towards the Sella and Gardena mountain passes. Allow 5 mins for the walk-in.

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