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| Ice climbing in Tyrol, Austria |
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| by Albert Leichtfried, Mountain Guide |
Krönung WI6 - Zillertal
Austria's Tyrol isn't only a summer hotspot for rock climbing fanatics, it's also an important and popular destination for winter ice climbing. The region offers a stunning selection of routes, from safe beginner climbs such as those in the Kitzgartenschlucht located deep in the Pitztal or the Kühtaier Mixedgartl high in the Ötztal, to numerous low-end 'plaisir' ice falls and cutting-edge mixed areas such as Diebsöfen and Dryland, located directly above Innsbruck. The range and choice of climbs is outstanding and there is certainly something to suit everyone's tastes.
Drive though the Tyrol and you will be taken aback by the sheer amount of ice on offer, as the main valleys all boast important ice climbing areas. In a good winter season the Stubaital, Zillertal, Ötztal, Pitztal and Kaunertal all offer over a hundred routes each. It comes as no surprise therefore that new routing began in earnest circa 20 years ago and continues actively to this day. Tyrol's ice climbing scene, driven by the likes of Andreas Orgler, Sepp Gwiggner, Florian Schranz, Michael Höllwarth, Bernhard Schiestl and Georg Kluckner to name but a few, is highly motivated and constantly on the lookout for new ice and mixed lines.
Although most icefalls are described in the 2004 Alpinverlag guidebook 'Eisklettern in Tirol', many new routes have been climbed since then... A great reason to check out what exactly is on offer in this cold Austrian Eden!
Have fun and climb safely
Albert Leichtfried
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| In a good winter season the Stubaital, Zillertal, Ötztal, Pitztal and Kaunertal all offer over a hundred routes each. |
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| High on the Monsterline in the Pitztal, Austria. |
| Guidebook: Eisklettern in Tirol by Axel Jentzsch-Rabl, Rober Abler & Michael Höllwarth, erschienen im Alpinverlag |
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