 May |
| 21 |
Arrival at Islamabad. |
| 22 |
Islamabad — Chilas.
Minibus down the "Karakoram Highway" |
| 23 |
Minibus along the Indo da Chilas river to Gilgit and Karimabad and continnuation via jeep to Hoppar. |
| 24 |
Trekking along the Barpu glacier to Phari Phari at 3600m. |
| 25 |
Trekking to base camp at 4600m. |
| 26 — 28 |
Acclimatisation climb near base camp. |
| 29 — 30 |
Rest and gear preparation. |
| 31 |
Climb snowy spur to 5300m with bivouac. |
| June |
| 1 |
Acclimatisation on descent route to 6200m and descent to 6200m. |
| 2 — 6 |
Rest and preparation for ascent. 60cm fresh snow at BC. |
| 7 |
Both teams leave BC and climb to top of snow slope. It snows during the afternoon and night. |
| 8 |
It snows throughout the next two days. |
| 9 |
Unstable weather in the morning. The international team decides to descend to BC. The Russians continue their climb. |
| 10 - 11 |
Rest and preparation for next ascent. |
| 12 |
New attempt. The international team reclimbs the first section and fixes two pitches on the headwall. |
| 13 |
The four climbers start at 4.00am and finish at 7.00pm. They climb 12 pitches and bivouac on the wall. |
| 14 |
The four climbers climb another 12 pitches and bivouac beneath the top of the pillar. |
| 15 |
Two more pitches lead to the summit plateau. They reach the summit at 14.00 local time. They descend to the start of the snowy descent spur. |
| 16 |
Descent to BC, while the Russians traverse right to meet up with the final pitches of the English route. They then climb to the summit plateau. |
| 17 |
The Russians bivouac on the summit plateau just short of the summit. |
| 18 |
The Russians reach the summit at 6.00am local time and descend. They bivouac once more during the descent. |
| 19 |
Clean up BC. The international team descends to Hoppar and then to Karimabad. |
| 20 |
The Russians arrrive at Hoppar and descend to Karimabad. |
| 21 |
Minibus along the "Karakoram Highway" from Karimabad to Besham. |
| 22 |
Besham — Islamabad. |
| 23 — 26 |
Islamabad, formalities. |
| 27 |
Return home. |
