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Expeditions
Spantik - Titolo
Location: Hunza Valley, Pakistan
Objective: Golden Pillar, Spantik 7028m. one of the finest and hardest mountains in the world.
   

- Introduction
- Expedition
- Details
- Map
- Chronology
The upper section of the Pillar
  New Russian route, with bivouacs.
  English route

Official expedition site
www.spantik.com

Thanks to:
FFME, Montura, Grivel, Kong, Papi Sport, Simond, La Sportiva, Millet, Cassin, Beal, Alvo Titanium, Manaraga.

Spantik

  1st ascent
1955 via the SE crest
by a German expedition led by Karl Kramer.

 1st ascent of Golden (NW) Pillar
by the Englishmen Victor Saunders and Mick Fowler, 5-11/08/1987 (5th overall ascent of Spantik). At the time it was heralded as one of the greatest alpine style ascents in the Himalayas. The route, over 2000m long, climbs the 1000m high NW Pillar with Scottish ice V/VI climbing.



Golden Peak Expedition (Spantik NW Face)

  New Route
(7-18/06/2000)

The Russians Alexander Klenov and Mikhail Davy climbed the first section of the Pillar via the English route and then continued on a new route for 1000m to the summit. They did not use fixed ropes and did not place any bolts.
Grade: 7a/A3. 25 pitches (40-50m).


  1st repeat of the English route
(12-15/06/2000)
Manu Guy, Manu Pellissier, Attila Ozsvath and Marko Prezelj in alpine style.
The climbers led three pitches on the first section. The second section required 26 pitches (45-50m).

The upper section of the Pillar is comparable to the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses. Saunders and Fowler aid climbed some sections but these were freed during the second ascent. The international team found no trace of its predecessors.

The climbers used the following technique: the leader climbed on a single 50m rope without a rucksack. The second followed with rucksack and second rope. While the third climber followed the leader continued. The fourth then ascended using jumars, cleaned the route and brought up the leader's rucksack.


  The rock
The rock on the upper section of the Golden Pillar is an extremely compact, cristalized marble (this is what gives it its characteristic red glow at sunset). Good gear placements (nuts and friends) were not easy to find due to the overall quality of the rock. They encountered plenty of mixed climbing and dry-tooled through iced-up cracks and rock covered in nevèe.

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