Spantik Peak

Makalu 2001


Cruz del Sur

Patagonia by water


Pamir Alay


Panorami 360°
Mnet - Pamir Alay - Titolo
One star for Ulughbek

Our expedition

After having pitched our tents in the Ak-Su valley (valley of clear waters) at the beginning of August 1996 at the base of the imposing Pie Slesov (4240m), we quickly identified a magnificent unclimbed spur. Our base-camp, situated in a luscious field close to shady juniper bushes and yak herds, was just a few 100m from the start of the route.

"Una stella per Ulughbek" as it was eventually named, is 27 pitches long (1000m), graded VI+ and ascends up magnificent and often vertical granite cracks. One third of the route was prepared prior to the actual climb and the night spent in a freezing bivouac on the summit, gazing at the thousands of stars above.


The Pamir Alay and the Asan-Usan region

Brief history and the current situation

Getting there - The climate and the people

Our expedition


The route
Ulughbek, King of Samarkand and nephew of Timur, studied astronomy in great depth but neglected the political sphere. He attempted to govern according to the principles of reason and tolerance instead of basing his decrees on science and instruction. Whilst still young he was deposed by a conservative faction and decapitated. Situations like this continue to exist, not only in remote regions such as the Asan-Usan.

Thanks to an extended period of excellent weather we succeeded in putting up two other new routes in the Ak-Su valley, namely "Trenta passi nella meta del cielo", 700m, Vlll- rising up magnificent slabs and cracks, and "Est per Giacomo", 350 m, V which climbs up the crest of a typical pyramidal spire.

The rest of our time was spent reading, going on panoramic walks and sharing moments with the Kirghisi shepherds and their children. Finally, we visited Samarkand, still profoundly evocative of the journeys to the treasures of the Orient, with its mosques and navy blue sun-baked majohca domes. It was the perfect ending to our trip.

Our expedition


    Marco Borghetti (C.A.I. Parma)
    Roberto Invernizzi (C.A.I. Parma)
    Stefano Righetti (C.A.A.I.)

Time of the year

    1-28 August 1996


    Pamir Alay, Asan-Usan, Ak-Su (Kirghistan)

Mountains and routes

    Pic Slesov (4240m), southern spur "Una stella per Ulughbek", 1000m, VII+

    Pic Slesov, western buttress "Trenta passi nella meta del cielo", 600m, Vll+

    Piramyde du Pamir (3100m), south west crest "Est per Giacomo", 350m, V

Map Asan-Usan
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