12 years ago Austrian climber and photographer Heinz Zak made the second free solo of Separate Reality, one of the most famous rock climbs in Yosemite Valley, USA. The film of this audacious ascent, which followed that of Wolfgang Güllich in 1986, is called 'Träume sterben nie', Dreams never die.
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in time to discover more about one of the most famous sport climbs in the world and the man who made it happen.
Laura Rogora has climbed Wallstreet, the historic world’s first 8c freed in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura.
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
On 14/05/2015 Felix Neumärker repeated To tu jeste nebydlo 9a at Labak in the Czech Republic. Two days later he repeated Action Direct, the 9a first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura.
Interview with French climber Melissa Le Nevé after the first female ascent of Wallstreet, the 8c first climbed in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich in Frankenjura, Germany.
On 8/05/2014 French climber Melissa Le Nevé repeated Wallstreet, reputed to be the world's first 8c and first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1987 in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Interview with German sports climber Alexander Megos after his two-hour repoint of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 9a in the Frankenjura, Germany.
On 3 May 2014 Alexander Megos repeated Action Direct, Wolfgang Güllich's 9a in the Frankenjura, Germany, in a mere 2 hours.
Simon Carter introduces the climbing at Arapiles, the most famous crag in Australia that, this year, celebrates it's 50th anniversary.
The video of Gabriele Moroni, the only Italian to have redpointed Action Directe, first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
Gabriele Moroni and the first Italian ascent of Action Directe 9a, the route freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and which still today represents an important test for sport climbing.
Interview with Alan Watts, the climber who played a leading role during the 1980's in developing Smith Rock into one of the most famous crags in the USA and the world.
Between 11 and 14 August 2009 the German brothers Thomas and Alexander Huber carried out the first redpoint ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary route up the S Buttress of Nameless Tower, Trango, Karakorum, Pakistan. The route had been established in 1989 by the Germans Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora and originally graded VI, 7b+, A2.
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
On 19/05/2008 Adam Ondra repeated Action Direct 9a in the Frankenjura, Germany first ascended by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991.
On 25 September Kilian Fischhuber made the 9th ascent of Action Directe 9a at the Waldkopf, Frankenjura, Germany.
Patxi Usobiaga becomes the third person in the world to on-sight an 8c, 'Gaua' at Lezain (N. Spain). Wolfgang Güllich's Action Directe 9a has been repeated by Dai Koyamada and Markus Bock. Martina Cufar on-sights Paieda' 8a+ at Rodellar, Spain and Fred Rouhling makes the first ascent of "La voie du charpentier" 8c at Allonzier la caille, France
News just in report Richard Simpson from England having successfully made the sixth ascent of Wolfgang Güllich's Action Direct, Frankenjura, Germany